The EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM is a relatively compact standard zoom in Canon's premium 'L' series. It's primarily designed for full frame cameras such as the EOS 6D, but also works on APS-C. It includes a macro mode offering up to 0.7x magnification, complemented by Canon's 'Hybrid IS' that's specifically designed to give better performance for close-up work than conventional IS systems. The lens is dust- and splash-resistant, including a rubber seal around the mount, and incorporates a ring-type ultrasonic motor for fast, silent autofocusing.
Canon EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
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- 24-70mm focal length
- 38.4-112mm equivalent focal length on Canon APS-C cameras
- F4.0 constant maximum aperture; F22 minimum
- Ring-type ultrasonic-type AF motor with full-time manual focusing
- Image stabilization
- 77mm filters
- 0.38m/14.96" minimum focus
- Canon EF mount for full frame, APS-H and APS-C DSLRs
|Lens type||Zoom lens|
|Max Format size||35mm FF|
|Focal length||24–70 mm|
|Lens mount||Canon EF|
|Number of diaphragm blades||9|
|Minimum focus||0.38 m (14.96″)|
|Motor type||Ring-type ultrasonic|
|Full time manual||Yes|
|Weight||600 g (1.32 lb)|
|Diameter||83 mm (3.27″)|
|Length||93 mm (3.66″)|
|Zoom method||Rotary (extending)|
|Filter thread||77 mm|
|Hood product code||EW-83L|
|Optional accessories||Soft Case LP1219|
Full-frame standard zoom versatility
Three months ago I've decided that I want to go full-frame. I took the decision after analysing for almost a year the best options for my next step in photography. After testing three mirrorless cameras (the E-M1, the X-E2 and the A7) and the 6D, I've come to the conclusion that the latter would suit me best. I've bought the 6D coupled with the new "kit" L glass...the 24-70 f4L IS USM. Beforehand I've read all the reviews and watched all the movies regarding the lens and the final impresion ...
I purchased this lens with my 7D mk2 a few weeks ago, when I decided I was going to keep both Canon and Nikon systems. This lens might seem an odd choice for crop cameras like the 7D, but I find the FL (slight wide angle to mid tele) really rather nice, and really wanted the macro mode, and 'L' fit and finish. Build quality is very good, and AF speed excellent. The macro function is very nice, although at maximum macro, you are very close to the subject. Image quality is actually a lot ...
Versatile and sturdy
I bought mine in a kit with 6D. The lens does not have as high IQ as other lenses in my portfolio, but it is not bad at all. Wide open, there will be some lacking sharpness in the corners and you will see chromatic aberration here and there and vignetting especially at the short end of the zoom. That needs to be said. Stop it down a bit and it becomes a lot better. I have taken some long exposure night shots with this lens, that are razor sharp and have little to no problem with CA. As other ...
Good kit bag for the following...
Currently have a 6D with 24-70L f4 zoom. I've just ordered a 70-300L zoom and 2x teleconverter. can anyone give some good pointers for cases that would be suitable for carrying this little lot around? thanks.
i would avoid having 2.0x converter with these 2 lenses you mentioned, you'll find out what i mean ;-) i suppose you mean to use the converter with 70-300L lens, now if you double the slow aperture of 70-300L, you can see how slow and useless it will become ;-) as far as a bag for your gear, i have used 2 lowepro sling shot 200 for almost the same load and enjoy them very much. they are made very well and very convenient. it is a joy to carry them around. you can easily fit a camera and 2 lenses, lots of accessories as well. good luck and happy shooting. Continue Reading
Full Frame: F2.8 vs. F4?
This is about zooms: 16-35, 24-70, and 70-200. Canon is unique in offering both F2.8 and F4 versions. Nikon only has F2.8. Sony FE (the new A7 models) are only F4. But there are differences: 1) While the 70-200 has IS for both apertures, the F4 has for the 16-35 and the 24-70. For low light stills, IS may provide 2-4 F-stops more light with a slower shutter speed (although with more motion blur of a moving subject) while the F2.8 is just one F-stop faster. For low light stills, F4 IS would seem to be preferable. 2) F2.8 will produce a slightly shorter DOF. It is the same difference as using the same F2.8 lens on an APS-C (e.g. 7D) vs. full frame: F4 full-frame DOF = F2.8 APS-C DOF. Does that really matter, especially at lower focal lengths which generally have a long DOF? 3) A lens or camera isn't very useful unless you have it with you. The two 16-35s are about the same weight (the new Tamron 15-30 F2.8 VC is nearly double), the F4 24-70 IS is about 1/2 pound lighter, but the F4 ...
Answer: Review your own research, compare your needs to the data you have gathered, and make a decision. Continue Reading
David, You have some good questions, but I'll just say this first: I'm never short of amazed how much money I see being spent on things that so often make so little difference and so often purely on the quest to have "the best". I have seen insane amounts of money spent on gear that first gets used only to take pictures of ducks and squirrels, and then ends up on Craigslist with the description "Mint condition! Only used three times!" I don't see this just every so often... I see it a LOT! Now, with that brief editorial out of the way, I'll address a few of your issues. First, the 70-200 lenses. Yes, you are correct that IS can help 2-4 stops for still subjects. You are also correct that moving subjects will blur at low shutter speeds. So what does that mean for you? Well, if you shoot still subjects and that extra stop of bokeh is not worth a cool thousand, then the f4 might be good for you. We actually own both the f2.8 and f4 IS versions. Wedding photographers probably end up ... Continue Reading
Security of photo gear in Madagascar
I'm travelling to east of Madagascar (Masoala, Andasibe, Berenty) in near future and wondering how about security when taking photo gear with me (backpack, tripod etc.). I have read about robberies in this country, especially in the cities, in the night and on main roads between cities in the southern part of the country. Does anyone have (recently) experience with Madagascar? How big is the risk of beeing attacked? And how to avoid / minimize risks?
Firstly, this post is in the wrong forum. Try the Open Talk forum. Secondly, take the usual precautions when travelling, and ask at your hotel about unsafe areas etc. Continue Reading
Yup. I'd put this in the Travel forum (or maybe the Open one, I guess). I never had any problems in Madagascar, although I have no idea if the situation there has changed in the past few years. I'd almost certainly never photograph after dark unless there were at least 2 others in my group. The only place I felt unsafe during daylight hours in Africa was in Zimbabwe, and that was only in a few of the smaller towns, where there were zero other white faces around, and where tourists rarely went. Continue Reading
I didn't had any problems with my camera gear at Madagascar but I didn't go out at night on cities. Don't take your gear or anything that looks expensive with you if you go out at night at cities. Lodges and that kind of places should be safe if you use common sense. Continue Reading
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