The EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM is a relatively compact standard zoom in Canon's premium 'L' series. It's primarily designed for full frame cameras such as the EOS 6D, but also works on APS-C. It includes a macro mode offering up to 0.7x magnification, complemented by Canon's 'Hybrid IS' that's specifically designed to give better performance for close-up work than conventional IS systems. The lens is dust- and splash-resistant, including a rubber seal around the mount, and incorporates a ring-type ultrasonic motor for fast, silent autofocusing.
Canon EF 24-70mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
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- 24-70mm focal length
- 38.4-112mm equivalent focal length on Canon APS-C cameras
- F4.0 constant maximum aperture; F22 minimum
- Ring-type ultrasonic-type AF motor with full-time manual focusing
- Image stabilization
- 77mm filters
- 0.38m/14.96" minimum focus
- Canon EF mount for full frame, APS-H and APS-C DSLRs
|Lens type||Zoom lens|
|Max Format size||35mm FF|
|Focal length||24–70 mm|
|Lens mount||Canon EF|
|Number of diaphragm blades||9|
|Minimum focus||0.38 m (14.96″)|
|Motor type||Ring-type ultrasonic|
|Full time manual||Yes|
|Weight||600 g (1.32 lb)|
|Diameter||83 mm (3.27″)|
|Length||93 mm (3.66″)|
|Zoom method||Rotary (extending)|
|Filter thread||77 mm|
|Hood product code||EW-83L|
|Optional accessories||Soft Case LP1219|
Full-frame standard zoom versatility
Three months ago I've decided that I want to go full-frame. I took the decision after analysing for almost a year the best options for my next step in photography. After testing three mirrorless cameras (the E-M1, the X-E2 and the A7) and the 6D, I've come to the conclusion that the latter would suit me best. I've bought the 6D coupled with the new "kit" L glass...the 24-70 f4L IS USM. Beforehand I've read all the reviews and watched all the movies regarding the lens and the final impresion ...
I purchased this lens with my 7D mk2 a few weeks ago, when I decided I was going to keep both Canon and Nikon systems. This lens might seem an odd choice for crop cameras like the 7D, but I find the FL (slight wide angle to mid tele) really rather nice, and really wanted the macro mode, and 'L' fit and finish. Build quality is very good, and AF speed excellent. The macro function is very nice, although at maximum macro, you are very close to the subject. Image quality is actually a lot ...
Security of photo gear in Madagascar
I'm travelling to east of Madagascar (Masoala, Andasibe, Berenty) in near future and wondering how about security when taking photo gear with me (backpack, tripod etc.). I have read about robberies in this country, especially in the cities, in the night and on main roads between cities in the southern part of the country. Does anyone have (recently) experience with Madagascar? How big is the risk of beeing attacked? And how to avoid / minimize risks?
Firstly, this post is in the wrong forum. Try the Open Talk forum. Secondly, take the usual precautions when travelling, and ask at your hotel about unsafe areas etc. Continue Reading
Yup. I'd put this in the Travel forum (or maybe the Open one, I guess). I never had any problems in Madagascar, although I have no idea if the situation there has changed in the past few years. I'd almost certainly never photograph after dark unless there were at least 2 others in my group. The only place I felt unsafe during daylight hours in Africa was in Zimbabwe, and that was only in a few of the smaller towns, where there were zero other white faces around, and where tourists rarely went. Continue Reading
Full Frame: F2.8 vs. F4?
This is about zooms: 16-35, 24-70, and 70-200. Canon is unique in offering both F2.8 and F4 versions. Nikon only has F2.8. Sony FE (the new A7 models) are only F4. But there are differences: 1) While the 70-200 has IS for both apertures, the F4 has for the 16-35 and the 24-70. For low light stills, IS may provide 2-4 F-stops more light with a slower shutter speed (although with more motion blur of a moving subject) while the F2.8 is just one F-stop faster. For low light stills, F4 IS would seem to be preferable. 2) F2.8 will produce a slightly shorter DOF. It is the same difference as using the same F2.8 lens on an APS-C (e.g. 7D) vs. full frame: F4 full-frame DOF = F2.8 APS-C DOF. Does that really matter, especially at lower focal lengths which generally have a long DOF? 3) A lens or camera isn't very useful unless you have it with you. The two 16-35s are about the same weight (the new Tamron 15-30 F2.8 VC is nearly double), the F4 24-70 IS is about 1/2 pound lighter, but the F4 ...
Answer: Review your own research, compare your needs to the data you have gathered, and make a decision. Continue Reading
David, You have some good questions, but I'll just say this first: I'm never short of amazed how much money I see being spent on things that so often make so little difference and so often purely on the quest to have "the best". I have seen insane amounts of money spent on gear that first gets used only to take pictures of ducks and squirrels, and then ends up on Craigslist with the description "Mint condition! Only used three times!" I don't see this just every so often... I see it a LOT! Now, with that brief editorial out of the way, I'll address a few of your issues. First, the 70-200 lenses. Yes, you are correct that IS can help 2-4 stops for still subjects. You are also correct that moving subjects will blur at low shutter speeds. So what does that mean for you? Well, if you shoot still subjects and that extra stop of bokeh is not worth a cool thousand, then the f4 might be good for you. We actually own both the f2.8 and f4 IS versions. Wedding photographers probably end up ... Continue Reading
How Does In-Mail Rebate Work?
Good day everyone, I am interested to buy Canon 24-70 f/4 lens. Today, I found Amazon offers the lens for $1,199. $300 post-purchase rebate form must be completed to get money back. Since I am unfamiliar with this kind of rebate, how does it work? I am going to buy this lens from Amazon and ship it to Saudi Arabia through my friend who lives in the US. Thank you...
Often the company or retailer will include a rebate form after purchase. Follow the instructions but it generally goes like this - Make a copy of the receipt for your records if you have to send in the original with the form. You'll probably have to include the actual UPC bar code on the side of the box as well, either carefully peal it off or cut it out. (I'd make a copy of that as well). Send them to the address provided and you should be getting a $300 check within 4-6 weeks........ Continue Reading
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"A Product, when delivered to you in new condition in its original container, is warranted against defects in materials or workmanship as follows: for a period of one (1) year from the date of original purchase, defective parts or a defective Product returned to Canon, or its authorized service providers, and proven to be defective upon inspection, will be repaired with new or comparable rebuilt parts or exchanged for a refurbished Product, as determined by Canon or the authorized service provider n their sole discretion. Replaced parts and exchanged Products will become the property of Canon."
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