The EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM is Canon’s ultra-wide angle zoom for its APS-C format DSLRs. Optically it’s a solid performer, with decent sharpness and minimal distortion. The ring-type ultrasonic focus motor gives fast, silent focusing and allows manual adjustment at any time. Like Canon’s other non-L series lenses, the hood is an optional extra.
Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Lens
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- 10-22mm focal length
- 16-35.2mm equivalent focal length on Canon APS-C cameras
- F3.5-4.5 maximum aperture; F22-27 minimum
- Ring-type ultrasonic-type AF motor with full-time manual focusing
- 77mm filters
- 0.24m/9.45" minimum focus
- Canon EF-S mount for APS-C DSLRs
|Lens type||Zoom lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||10–22 mm|
|Lens mount||Canon EF-S|
|Maximum aperture||F3.5 - F4.5|
|Minimum aperture||F22.0 - F27.0|
|Number of diaphragm blades||6|
|Aperture notes||Circular aperture|
|Special elements / coatings||Super Spectra coatings|
|Minimum focus||0.24 m (9.45″)|
|Motor type||Ring-type ultrasonic|
|Full time manual||Yes|
|Weight||385 g (0.85 lb)|
|Diameter||84 mm (3.29″)|
|Length||90 mm (3.54″)|
|Materials||Plastic barrel, metal mount|
|Zoom method||Rotary (internal)|
|Filter thread||77 mm|
|Hood product code||EW-83E|
|Optional accessories||Soft Case LP1319|
Not sharp wide open. impossible to use for architecture or landscapes at anything wider than f/10.
The best lens I own
I must say after owning first wanting this lens, could not afford it and then getting the Sigma version of this, I had to return the sigma due to performance issues and plunge into my pocket for this lens and there has been no turning back yet. One year later countless of travels with it, countless of shots with it I am really happy with it and its performance. It took me a while to master it and wield its power but it was well worth the wait I love this lens. When I was first shopping for ...
Canon EF-S 10-22mm
its a great wide angle for cropped factor cameras... sharp and good colors!
Great lens, not without its drawbacks
Pros: - Excellent range for APS-C format, 16-35mm equivalent. For a long time was my #1 travel/architecture lens - Good build quality (albeit a long way from "L" lens quality) - Light, a great "walk around" lens. Cons: - Higher priced than it should be by about 20% in my opinion - Sharpness adequate only - Contrast low. Virtually every shot requires post-processing - Small maximum aperture makes it fairly useless as a portrait lens - Moderate distortion at extremes of zoom range (although ...
Canon 10-22 worse than my 18-55 IS II @ 18 mm?
After some helpful discussion on this site about what wide angle lens to choose, I ended up purchasing the Canon 10-22 yesterday (in a close race over the new Tokina 12-28). Once I got home I took it out to take some pictures around the yard and was thoroughly unimpressed with it's optics. Crazy amounts of CA, dominating the corners but still visible mid frame and really mushy sharpness outside the center 1/9th (by area) of the image. I have read similar threads on this site and others where many of the people say it is user error on the part of the new WA lens owner. I tried to take some "flat images" (the grass at my feet, etc) and the sharpness is somewhat better (so some of that was my fault) but still bad for a lens that costs 4x the cost of my kit lens. When taking a picture of a test chart, I see CA over most of the chart (anything outside the center 1/9th, even with terrible lighting (so the contrast wouldn't be as bad)). And when I took a picture of my front door, shaded ...
You're mixing up the theoretical point that any kind of distortion correction can reduce sharpness (CA correction is per-channel distortion correction) with the much more important practical point that if you line up the channels to remove CA, edges will appear subjectively sharper. The 10-22 does indeed suffer from CA, but it can be corrected very successfully and very easily in Photoshop. I don't normally use DPP but I expect that works equally well. The other side of the coin is that the 10-22 has class-leading flare resistance, which is actually more important because flare can't be "corrected". Continue Reading
How are you focusing on the corners? In other words how do you know that the corner softness is not really in reality the corners being out of focus? Continue Reading
The best I have done so far is take a photo of the grass at my feet while attempting to be level and taking pictures of some walls of my house (which don't quite cover the whole frame). I'll probably try a larger wall tomorrow with a tripod/level if I get a chance. No AF points on my camera (T3i) come near the corners so I can't use them to focus. As an addendum, I did all my testing at f/5.6 (sweet spot for the lens according to charts) and for comparisons with the 18-55 I turned the IS off on the kit lens. Thanks. Continue Reading
Which lenses are particularly suitable for Infrared photography (IR)
I plan to convert one of my Canon SLRs to IR, with a 630nm cut-off filter. I now got the information that lenses differ significantly in their suitability to IR and that this difference is not necessarily correlated with price and performance in the visible range (1) . Canon's Ef 70-200mm lenses do have an IR mark on their focus scale (2) and therefore seem to be quite suitable for IR (2) . My EF-S 55-250 mm IS unfortunately has not. Apart from this, the EF-S 17-85mm IS is my main landscape lens which I plan to use on my IR camera. I do also have the EF 100-400mm L IS, the Tamron 28-300mm VC, the Sigma 50mm Macro, the EF-S 10-22mm and the Sigma 18-50mm f2.8 Macro - are they any good for IR? So, IR photographers - which lenses (Canon or third party with Canon-fit) do you use on you IR converted Canon SLRs, and which ones can you recommend?
If you look around a bit more you will see that these lists of IR suitable lenses are VERY unreliable. The result strongly depends on how it is tested (e.g. IR-converted DSLR or just an external IR pass filter with very long exposure), what filter type is used etc. It's a first step for evaluating, nothing more. The EFS 17-85 is one of the few recent zooms that does pretty well in IR, so that is a good start. Continue Reading
If you are considering converting a dSLR to IR and it has neither magnified Live View for MF nor an RGB histogram display, then don'tbother converting it! It will be a struggle to focus a variety of lenses and exposure will be a crap shoot. Find another body that does have these features for conversion. Mike K Continue Reading
The 40D was among Canon's first Live View cameras, also I see that it has separate R,G,B histogram during image review in addition to luminance. I consider these essential features for IR photography. (from many years of frustration not having these features in an IR body). I strongly recommend not IR modifying the 20D. My extreme frustration with not having Live View and RGB histograms comes from using an IR modified D60 (not 60D), very similar in vintage to the 20D. an IR 20D will certainly yield frustration in out of focus images that are over exposed. That being said, I notice that the 40D has an older LCD with only 230k dot resolution, whereas modern Canon dSLRs (even entry level) have 1.0m dot LCDs. This lower resolution screen may often be insufficient for accurate manual focus adjustment. All zoom lenses will change their IR focus calibration upon zooming, so you can only AF calibrate one lens at one zoom position. Calibration at other zoom positions is a guess. Remember the ... Continue Reading
Help choosing an UWA for my 7D please.
I need help choosing an UWA for my 7D. I am off to the USA at the end of July (Grand Canyon, etc. etc.) and I thought it might be nice to go with something wider than my EF-S 17-85. The choices seem to be: Canon EF-S 10-22 F3.5-4.5 Canon EF-S 10-18 (due out soon) Sigma 10-20 F3.5 (I would pay the extra for this over the 4-5.6) Tokina 11-16 F2.8 Tamron 10-24 F3.5-4.5 I think I should exclude the Tokina. It's the most expensive because it goes up to f2.8 but I don't think I need that. A few reviews of the Tamron suggest it is a bit softer than the other option so maybe I can discount that one as well. So that leaves Sigma and Canon. I suppose my initial preference would be the Canon 10-22. It already available so I would get more change to try it before going that if I waited for the new 10-18 and it has a marginally larger range than the Sigma. Does anyone have any thoughts that might help. Thanks
I'd suggest the 10-18mm. It's already out, and many forum members here have one already. In fact, I got mine yesterday (a day early; was supposed to be delivered today). I've not taken any shots with it yet, but I played with it for a few minutes and was quite surprised with how fast and SILENTLY it focused. If the image quality is as good as everyone says, then it's a steal at $300. Continue Reading
Your first choice is the best one > Canon EF-S 10-22 F3.5-4.5 ....my next lens. Hoping to get one for under $500, used / refurbed, of course. Fish Here's a couple taken with my buddies 10-22 > Continue Reading
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