The Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS is a compact, lightweight super-zoom lens for use exclusively with Canon's APS-C format DSLRs, on which it offers an equivalent focal length range of 29-320mm. It features an Optical Image Stabilizer for up to 4 stops of effective correction, but disappointingly its USM focus motor is of the micro-motor type, so full-time manual focus is not possible. Although this is a decent lens which offers undeniable versatility, those seeking the ultimate in technical image quality should consider third-party alternatives.
Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens
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“ This lens is a general purpose solution which allows the photographer not to worry about fiddling around changing lenses when out traveling, but makes inevitable optical compromises to achieve this goal.”
- 18-200mm focal length
- 28.8-320mm equivalent focal length on Canon APS-C cameras
- F3.5-5.6 maximum aperture; F22-38 minimum
- Micromotor-type AF motor without full-time manual focusing
- Image stabilization, 4 stops
- 72mm filters
- 0.45m/17.72" minimum focus
- Canon EF-S mount for APS-C DSLRs
|Lens type||Zoom lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||18–200 mm|
|Image stabilisation||Yes (4 stops)|
|Lens mount||Canon EF-S|
|Maximum aperture||F3.5 - F5.6|
|Minimum aperture||F22.0 - F38.0|
|Number of diaphragm blades||6|
|Aperture notes||Circular aperture|
|Special elements / coatings||Super Spectra coatings 2 high-precision aspheric lenses 2 UD lenses|
|Minimum focus||0.45 m (17.72″)|
|Full time manual||No|
|Weight||595 g (1.31 lb)|
|Diameter||79 mm (3.09″)|
|Length||102 mm (4.02″)|
|Materials||Plastic barrel, metal mount|
|Zoom method||Rotary (internal)|
|Filter thread||72 mm|
|Hood product code||EW-78D|
|Optional accessories||Soft Case LP1116|
Scoring is relative only to the other lenses in the same category at the time of review.
|Ergonomics and Handling||
This lens has to be accepted for what it is: a general purpose solution which allows the photographer not to worry about fiddling around changing lenses when out traveling, but which makes inevitable optical compromises to achieve this goal. The superb image stabilizer extends the capability of the lens still further, allowing you to keep the lens stopped down to optimum apertures for longer as light levels drop.
General-purpose use, such as travelling, where the wide zoom range and effective image stabilization combine to give a very useful package
Not So Good For
Critical work, where the compromises necessary to maintain the zoom range become clearest - particularly CA and distortion.
Bought this lens mainly as an all rounder travel lens over 7 years ago, it had an average retail price of around $1000 plus at various stores. Not a shabby price back then. Price has considerably dropped since then and more accurately reflects on the true value of product quality.The 18-200 has an incredible zoom range if you want a lens that will cover pretty much everything when travelling and is great if you don't want to keep changing lenses and carrying too much gear with you as it ...
Great all rounder
I have been using this lens for well over a year now, paired up with a Canon 60D and it has been great. I originally had the twin lens kit 18-55 and 70-300 but found I was missing a lot of shots when I had the wrong lens on - this has totally eliminated the issue due to its fantastic range. You do need to be aware of some of the limitations: at the 18mm there is a lot of distortion at the edges - people will have 'fat arm' syndrome at this length if they are positioned close to the sides of ...
Really underrated for the price
This lens is a work horse, it has been on many travels and sports days with me and it hasn’t given up on me yet. The optical quality might not be the best, but for the price you are paying it is well worth it. The huge focal length, light weight and built in IS all add up in the end. I originally bought this lens as a walk around multi-functional lens, I now use it for sport and wildlife and it has done me proud. One does need to play to the lens' strengths to avoid the drawbacks. Anything ...
Canon EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
I would have to say thiat this lens is mediocre. The lens has trouble focusing in close up situations as well as picture quality is degredated at best.
Canon EF-S 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 IS Lens vs Canon EF-S 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM
Hi all Preparing for a trip to India (in monsoon season) and wanting a single, general purpose lens for when I'm out and about. I have a 7D and currently use a combination of an EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 IS and an EF 70-300 f/4-5.6 IS USM. I want to minimise having to change lenses in the wet. I think I've narrowed it down to two lenses - the EF-S 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 IS and the EF-S 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS STM. Both in my current price range. I've not been able to find any direct comparisons between the two lenses. And so looking for advice on these (or alternatives) Thanks Andy
The 18-135 STM is the better lens but nothing you have or are concidering is weather sealed to the standards of your 7D. I would be getting a rain sleeve too. Even if you get an L lens like the 24-105, get a rain sleeve. Continue Reading
I had the 18-135 on a trip in asia. Its a good lens. But thinking back, i always wanted a little wider. So if i was going again a 15-85 would be on my crop camera. Continue Reading
Hello looking at buying the 18-200mm as my family is taking a trip to Disney next month. I've been told that this lense should cover any school activities simple portraits, etc. We just welcomed my first nephew on my side of the family this month and my sister has asked me to take his new born pictures since I took her maternity pics. I just want to be sure that I'm spending my money on something that will last and will do the job.
I haven't used it myself, but it's my understanding that it makes some substantial compromises optically in order to get that range. One other thing to consider: that lens is big, and heavy. If you're going to be wrangling small children, the last thing you are going to want is four pounds of camera hanging around your neck. Not to mention that Disney itself is going to be busy and crowded. People everywhere = poor opportunities for nice photos. I was just at Disney a couple years ago, and by the end of the week, I was sick to death of my point-and-shoot. I couldn't imagine having hauled an SLR along with me (especially on rides). My advice to you would be to take the money you would have spent on the lens, and buy a compact P&S superzoom. I honestly think you'll have a better time of it. Continue Reading
It really depends on what you plan on doing with your images. If you aren't going to enlarge them much, i.e., small prints and viewing on small to medium sized monitors and little or no cropping, then you might not even notice the limitations of the 18-200. There is distortion at both ends of the zoom range so vertical or horizontal lines near the edges will appear bent. At 200mm it is not sharp enough to enlarge much, especially in the corners. It is also fairly slow at 200mm so it needs a lot of light. I started with a Sigma 18-200 OS (Canon hadn't released theirs yet) in order to have a single lens solution for a vacation to Germany. I had some shots along the Rhine river that required cropping out at least 50% and the results were not good - definitely fuzzy. I also had a lot of trouble with indoors shots with no flash and no tripod (not allowed). Bracing the camera on something helped but didn't solve the problem. Eventually I got to compare my Sigma to the Canon 18-200 ... Continue Reading
Blurred low light, indoor fast action images Canon 7D with 18-200
I am new to the big wide world of DSLR and have recently upgraded to a Canon 7D with an 18-200 and 10-20. I have been using it mainly for action shots [skateboarding] and getting amazing results. This week I am attending an indoor badminton comp. Today was opening day, so spent time trying to get the setting right for the poor low light [fluro only] and dark painted interior of the complex. I had read up on what I should be looking out for and things I need to be aware of & adjusted setting as I went along. However the results were dreadful! In fact the best results were virtually stationary shots in auto mode! In AV everything was blurred. I think I got to the point were I had simply confused myself so much. The comp is on for another week and I would like to be able to stop the action just as I can do with the skateboarding shots [in bright sunlight as well as overcast weather] rather than just turning out blurred images. I had read the setting for best results in these ...
Posting an example shot would be helpful. Some things to check. Make sure you are in AIServo focus mode. I prefer to use the center AF point with point expansion in that situation, but, you might find Zone AF point selection works too. You are using pretty slow lenses for shooting indoors. I typically use an EF 85mm f/1.8 for indoors on the 7D, if you have an EF 50mm f/1.8 or EF 40mm f/2.8 STM those might work in a pinch. I would recommend you increase your Auto ISO limit to ISO 6400, and set your camera to Auto ISO. High ISO noise can be removed in post processing, a motion blurred photo can't be fixed. Shoot RAW if you aren't doing so already. I would use Tv mode and Auto ISO, you are going to want your lenses wide open anyway, which will probably be f/5.6. Start with a shutter speed of 1/800 and see what your results look like. Continue Reading
Your shots are blurred because you have insufficient shutter speed. These are different recommendations for different lighting conditions. Your camera and lens are not capable of shooting indoors with these settings - there simply isn't enough light. If you want to shoot indoor badminton you need a different lens with a larger aperture. You could try a 50mm f1.8 or an 85mm f1.8 but you may find the focal length limiting unless you are close to the court. Don't expect to be able to freeze fast action. You may have to go up to ISO 3200 or even 6400. Continue Reading
Two points have been made above. There is insufficient light indoors, compared to outdoors/sunny conditions and your equipment is unable to compensate for the lack of light. There is also a third problem to contend with, which is the quality of the light. In addition to being nice and bright the sun puts out a (relatively) consistent amount of light over time and that light contains all the colours of the visible light spectrum. By comparison the fluorescent lights in most halls/gyms don't contain the entire visible light spectrum and they fluctuate in power on a 1/60th sec cycle. This can cause two problems: 1. images taken under these conditions can show a noticeable colour caste meaning you will need to adjust your white balance. 2. You may suffer inconsistent exposure levels between images if you shoot with a shutter speed faster than 1/60th. What is happening is that a faster shutter speed results in your image being taken during one part of the lights cycle. If you capture the ... Continue Reading
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