The Canon EOS Rebel T5 is a solid entry-level DSLR with a price that will please the budget-conscious. It improves upon its predecessor, the T3, by upping the HD video resolution to 1080 x 1920 and the sensor's resolution to 18 megapixels. The EOS T5 is also outfitted with a 3-inch, 460,000 dot LCD. Beginners will like the Basic+ control menu, Creative Auto, and Creative Filters, while more advanced shooters will appreciate the T5's manual controls and customization options. Frequently accessed settings are available through the camera's Q-menu, and shooters of all skill levels will find their way around the T5's interface quickly.
Canon EOS Rebel T5 DSLR Camera Kit with EF-S 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 IS II Lens
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- 18MP APS-C CMOS sensor
- ISO 100-6400 (expandable to 12800)
- 9-point AF system
- Up to 3 fps continuous shooting
- 1080/30p HD video
- 3" LCD with 460,000 dots
- Feature Guide, Creative Filters, Basic+ and Creative Auto for beginners
- GPS optional with compatible GP-E2 receiver
- SD/SDHC/SDXC memory
|Body type||Compact SLR|
|Max resolution||5184 x 3456|
|Other resolutions||3456 x 2304, 2592 x 1728|
|Image ratio w:h||3:2|
|Effective pixels||18 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||19 megapixels|
|Sensor size||APS-C (22.3 x 14.9 mm)|
|ISO||Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400|
|White balance presets||6|
|Custom white balance||Yes|
|JPEG quality levels||Fine, Normal|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||9|
|Lens mount||Canon EF/EF-S|
|Focal length multiplier||1.6×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT color LCD, liquid-crystal monitor|
|Viewfinder type||Optical (pentamirror)|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/4000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (Pop-up)|
|Flash range||9.20 m (at ISO 100)|
|External flash||Yes (Hot-shoe, E-TTL II)|
|Flash modes||Auto, On, Off, Red-eye|
|Continuous drive||3 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (10 sec (2 sec with mirror lock-up))|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV steps)|
|AE Bracketing||±2 (3 frames at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV steps)|
|WB Bracketing||Yes (3 images at -/+ 3 steps)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (30, 25 fps)|
|Storage types||SD/SDHC/SDXC card|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|Remote control||Yes (E3 connector)|
|Battery description||Lithium-Ion LP-E10 rechargeable battery & charger|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||500|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||480 g (1.06 lb / 16.93 oz)|
|Dimensions||130 x 100 x 78 mm (5.12 x 3.94 x 3.07″)|
|Timelapse recording||Yes (by USB cable and PC)|
Rebel T5 - a beginner's perspective after 2 months.
On the one hand, it's the first camera I ever owned so I can't bring a whole lot of experience to the review. But I can at least rate how user-friendly it is to beginners. This is considered the most basic, inexpensive beginner DSLR you can buy from Canon, unless you get "last year's model" ...you can get a really good deal on a Rebel T3 for something like $300, $350 bucks. I paid $550 for this camera with the kit lens. If you already have a Rebel and were thinking "should I upgrade?" then ...
Photo light box what metering mode?
Hi I am using a photo box and with my SL1 I have the kit lens and the 2.8 40mm pancake lens I take photos of these rc products I make and was wondering what lens should I try and what metering mode? ( see un cropped actual photo) In the past I used my old T3 with the 50mm 1.8 II lens most of the time and sometimes it's kit lens and the Evaluative metering mode and they did not come out as good as I wanted them to. I am thinking 2.8 lens with center weighted metering mode? Any input will be great. THANKS
As the subject is static and totally under your control, it is very easy for you to try both lenses and see which you like best. Quite possibly the kit zoom at the long end of the zoom range will be easiest for small subjects, but try it and see. They may not have turned out well for lots of reasons that have nothing to do with the lens used or the metering mode. With subjects like these, the lighting is crucial, as is the background. You also need to choose an aperture setting to give you the depth of field required. Getting the exposure right is easy because if it is wrong you simply adjust it and take the shot again (use either Exposure Compensation or set the exposure manually in Manual mode). I realise this is probably not quite the answer you wanted, but I hope it is helpful anyway. i would recommend that you use trial and error - it is a great way to learn more about your camera and lenses. Continue Reading
I don’t think the metering mode is all that relevant. Since this is a static subject with presumably static lighting, as someone else mentioned, all you have to do is check the camera’s histograms and you should be able to get a precise exposure. I’d use the sharpest lens of the two, although both lenses are a bit short, in my opinion, for this kind of work — generally you want the camera far enough away from the product so that you can adjust things without bumping into the camera or tripod. You say that your photos do “not come out as good as I wanted them to”. What are you comparing them to? Product photography is a difficult specialty, and there is a good reason why experienced product photographers get paid a lot. Instead, I’d try to find the look you are trying to emulate, and then ask how that can be done. Oh, what are rc products? I guess these aren’t Radio Controlled? :D Continue Reading
Hi just got done taking some photos they came out pretty good I used the 2.8 40mm lens. They are Radio controlled car products. I used M mode ISO 400 with a F11 to 14 and adjusted the shutter speed for the exposer. this is right out of the camera no photo shop yet. I used the LCD mode with my SL1 It's funny anyone know why with the same shutter settings when using the LCD for shooting the shutter sounds very slow but if you use the normal mode through eye piece it sounds much faster? Continue Reading
How good is the 18-55 mm kit lens that comes with the Canon T3?
Please don't give me alternatives like buying the T3i used, or mention other lenses. I just want to know about this one. Specifically, I'd like to know how close an object can be before the lens can't keep it in focus anymore. Also, what would that distance be shortened to if I stuck a +1, +2, +4 and +10 (all of these at once) on the kit lens? I'm interested in doing some basic "macro" photography (I know it's not "real" macro. Please don't get all technical about it) and certainly can't afford a proper macro lens. Again, I don't want to hear about cheap, used, macro lenses I can get online. Sorry if I sound rude, it's just that I've asked for help on several occasions and I always get a bunch of people giving their opinions on things I don't need help with.
The big CON of a reversal ring is you expose part of the lens that was never meant to be exposed. You risk getting dust and other contamination into areas of the lens that would require professional cleaning. If you are on a budget FORGET ABOUT using a reversing ring. It is being penny wise, and pound foolish. In my opinion extension tubes (the best you can afford). Read all the reviews. Continue Reading
also reversing rings can get stuck on the camera mount! Continue Reading
What's your budget for whatever kit ( e.g. close up lenses ) you plan to get instead ? So you want help, but you're bloody-minded enough to reject advice that might be in your budget ? Given your attitude stop reading here. Extension tubes. Ideally auto extension tubes. Continue Reading
Looking to get an entry level camera ($300-$400) and have been reading about "true resolution"- size of the sensor/pixel density... Example: FinePix SL1000 16mp = 9.7 mp Panasonic Lumix FZ70 16mp = 9.7mp Canon Rebel T3 12.2mp = 12.2mp Is this true? Would the T3 take better quality pics? I would be using a tripod and have all the editing software (PS, Perfect Effects, etc) Any suggestions would be apprectiated.
I think you are referring to true resolution defined by snapsort which is, according to me, a bit nonsense. It is the resolution at average shooting conditions, with an aperture like f3.5. It takes into account diffraction, so at the same aperture a smaller sensor will be more affected by diffraction. But this is nonsense not to take into account the lens max aperture of each camera !! If you shoot a picture at f16 with a FF camera, you are likely to use a much lower aperture with a 1/2.3" sensor. They should not compare the resolution with a similar f-number. Their true resolution concept is very specific to this site and is is my opinion a very bad idea. This is not at all relevant. Continue Reading
The sensor on the T3 is larger and ultimately offers more potential for high ISO work. However both high ISO capability and potential resolution are not really measures of an image's quality, IMO. A good visual composition usually far outweighs any technical factors. Continue Reading
That's an interesting perspective to take, but I am surprised at using the APS-C sensor as 1:1 instead of dividing by its crop factor as well :) I'm not sure I would equate smaller sensors as being equivalent to a larger sensor at a lower resolution, but noise reduction for low light does reduce effective image resolution. In any case, sensor size has its biggest impact on low light or dark portions of brightly lit scenes, especially if your exposure is too low and you brighten in post. The FZ70 16MP is real used outside, in bright light, but there's also equivalent aperture to consider, and lens sharpness. Even inside the FZ70 might beat the T3i with its older kit lens, but be much worse than a prime lens. Continue Reading
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