The XF 35mm F1.4 R is a fast ‘normal’ prime for Fujifilm’s X system that behaves much like the classic 50mm lenses which used to be supplied with 35mm film SLRs. Optically it’s superb – impressively sharp at large apertures, with minimal distortion or chromatic aberration. Autofocus is quiet and reasonably fast, and like Fujifilm’s other ‘R’ lenses there’s an aperture ring on the lens barrel. If we were to buy just one lens for an X-system camera, this would be it.
Fujifilm XF 35mm f/1.4 Lens
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|Lens type||Prime lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||35 mm|
|Lens mount||Fujifilm X|
|Number of diaphragm blades||7|
|Special elements / coatings||1 aspherical element|
|Minimum focus||0.28 m (11.02″)|
|Full time manual||Unknown|
|Weight||187 g (0.41 lb)|
|Diameter||65 mm (2.56″)|
|Length||55 mm (2.17″)|
|Filter thread||52 mm|
Having tested this classic prime lens many times, I can conclude that the optics is remarkable. Even better than some of leica's 35mm. Ideal and good enough to be used with the high end bodies of fuji x system.
Sharpest lens I've ever had for a digital camera
I bought an X-E1 w/18-55 a few weeks ago and have come to know it well. It was an easy learning curve with all the essential controls so easily accessible and the lens performs admirably for a kit zoom. Yesterday the 35mm arrived, so I took it out for a walk in the area and snapped away. I live in the south, so the daffodils and other spring flowers are up. All my shots were REALLY crisp, whether AF or MF. Shooting flowers at f1.4 was amazing, mostly using MF. The bokeh is the best of any ...
Top Drawer Performer
First rate build and mechanical quality, optics are tack sharp wide open at over 75% of the frame with corners and edge somewhat lagging behind. Sharpness at f/2 is the same as f/1.4 but there is slightly less corner falloff. By f/2.8 edges and corners show visible sharpness improvement and by f/5.6 they are at peak performance. That said, I'd consider f/2.8 the widest aperture for seriously critical landscape work across the frame and f/1.4 ideal for low light reportage, street shooting and ...
A lens that puts no limitations between you and your subject
Bokeh Bokeh Bokeh! I've been shooting with this lens for about 6 months now and it is spectacular. My main point of reference is the Nikkor 35/1.8 on a Nikon D5100. I've since moved to the XE-1 and I'm never going back! This lens produces perfectly sharp images every time, sharp edge to edge, and exceptional center sharpness when shot wide open, with buttery, natural bokeh that creates almost an oil painting effect in the background. Let the lens speak for itself though, all these photos ...
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Choosing between xf35mm and xf23mm?
Hi guys, I'm having trouble deciding between these 2 lenses and would love to hear what you guys have to say. I own the xf18-55 mm and after taking a look at my most used focal lengths (using Exposureplot), I found that I use both almost equally, with 35mm slightly more. That being said I use the 35mm the most among all focal lengths, although the difference isn't far from the 23mm. I feel that I tend to favor the 35mm more, but I really want the new manual focusing ring that they have on the 23mm (here I assume that it would allow for a faster manual focusing). According to a review i've read, the 35mm also tends to make a louder noise when focusing, also something that I take into consideration. Currently, I couldn't find any reviews on the differences between these two lenses optically, at least both in resolution and color rendition, but I expect one to not be too far from the other. Please advise.
I really don't think you should let the technicalities decide this. Everything I've read and seen of those two says they are fine lenses. What is much more important is how you see your photographs. It is very sensible to look at which focal lengths you actually use, as you have done. But more than that, which focal length(s) have helped you make your favorite pictures? If you select your best pictures (let's say a portfolio of 20-30) what focal lengths did you use there? I'm sure you won't go wrong with either, as long as it suits your way of seeing. HTH, Antony. Continue Reading
I own the 18-55 and if I could have only one of these two primes I would go for the 35mm. The reason is that since it is a longer FL the ability to blur background is significantly enhanced relative to 23mm. Also, the 35mm seems superb for portraits and separating subject from background. So I think the 35mm compliments the 18-55 better. You mentioned that you incline a little more to 35mm vs 23, so there you go. Continue Reading
Fuji 18mm f/2 and 35mm f/1.4 (or Zeiss 32mm f/1.8) vs. 23mm f/1.4?
Hi, I recently acquired a Fuji X-pro1 for a great price and I am looking at starting my kit. I am splitting hairs over my decision on what to get to start the kit off. My first idea was to solely get the 23mm f/1.4. I am well aware that this lens is absolutely fantastic optically as well as mechanically, and I love the depth of field scale for use of zone focusing. I was very confident in my decision with this lens, but as I started thinking about its size, I got some cold feet, which brings me to my conundrum. The alternative kit for me would be the 18mm f/2 and either the 35mm f/1.4 or 32mm 1.8 Zeiss lens. As far as the 18mm goes, I know that it is potentially the weakest optically from the Fuji X lens offerings, and I would use it primarily for landscapes, but I feel that the size could potentially make up for the slightly sub-par IQ. The thing I am worried about is the high CA present on the lens for landscapes. And as for the 50mm equivalents, I am drawn slightly more ...
With the rebate I got on the 14 and 35mm Fuji's I paid much less than I would for the Zeiss lenses even with the current offer. I would need to see a clear advantage and if anything the advantage goes to Fuji for my purposes. The Fuji 35mm has a wider aperture and the Fuji 14mm has a 58mm filter thread like some other Fuji lenses I own. Continue Reading
Your reply is confusing. You state you quit the Nikon plus zoom system because you got tired of the size. The Fuji 18-55 zoom is not nearly as big or heavy as a DSLR zoom of comparable quality. The XPro1 plus 18-55 would weigh probably half of what the Nikon plus zoom did. The 18-55 is roughly comparable in weight to the 23 or 56 so is not a particularly heavy lens. Hard to imagine much disadvantage of the 18-55 vs the 18 prime other than size either especially as the zoom has OIS. As another poster suggested, the 18-55 zoom plus the 27 might serve you well. Continue Reading
Not trying to talk you out of primes but as many have discovered, the 18-55 zoom is good enough that you really don't give up much especially considering the OIS. It makes particular sense as a travel lens when space is a consideration. You might peruse the various lens tests at http://www.photozone.de/fuji_x to see just how well the 18-55 compares to it's prime siblings. Continue Reading
Chromatic Aberrations with Fujifilm 35mm
Has anyone else seen major chromatics with their 35mm mounted on an X-T1? This is wide open at 1.4, jpeg, no processing, cropped to 100%, with the Lens Modulation Optimizer On. This is lit by a simple night stand light. I thought the LMO was supposed to correct for this. Any help?
Ouch that's terrible! Hope it's a close crop and the actual issue is a lot smaller! (When I notice this issue i'm usually zoomed all the way in and zooming back out gives me perspective on how bad it actually is. i.e. not that bad) From what I know LMO (Lens Modulation Optimizer) it has nothing to do with this unfortunately. LMO's goal is to fix the refraction at really high apertures (11-22) which causes image softness. Apparently it works but there's no reason to think it will help here. If I'm not mistaken what you're seeing is "axial/longitudinal chromatic aberration" a.k.a. "bokeh fringing" where high contrast elements behind the focus line (razor thin in this case) have a green fringe and those in front have a magenta fringe. http://photographylife.com/what-is-chromatic-aberration It's connected with shooting wide open and can be fixed by using a smaller aperture (larger F-number), though that will obviously compromise the bokeh effect if that's what you're going for. If you ... Continue Reading
This is longitudinal chromatic aberration, and it's perfectly normal to get this on this lens since it isn't particularly well corrected for it. See here : http://www.lenstip.com/348.5-Lens_review-Fujifilm_Fujinon_XF_35_mm_f_1.4_R_Chromatic_and_spherical_aberration.html As somebody else said, you can correct this to an extent in certain softwares, such as Lightroom. Although it's never going to be as effective as lateral chromatic aberration. Continue Reading
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