The Nikon D3300 continues on the path of its entry-level DSLR predecessors, with plenty of built-in shooting and retouch modes, a small footprint, and beginner-friendly user interface. It has a 24.2 megapixel CMOS sensor with no optical low-pass filter, as well as an Expeed 4 image processor. The camera's ISO range tops out at 25,600 and continuous shooting up to 5 fps. The D3300 can also record 1080/60p full HD video. A newly redesigned collapsible, 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 VR II kit lens comes with the D3300. Optional wireless sharing to smartphones or tablets can be accomplished via Nikon's WU-1a module or an Eye-Fi SD card.
Nikon D3300 DSLR Camera with Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II Lens
Already own this?
This item is in your gearlist!
“ Some in-camera tools for creativity and processing are provided, but the D3300's real strength is high quality, high resolution images that will more than satisfy a beginner.”
- 24.2 MP CMOS DX-format sensor
- 5 frames per second continuous shooting
- 11 AF points with 3D tracking
- ISO 100-12800 (expandable to 25600)
- 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps) HD video (MPEG-4/H.264/MOV)
- 3 inch LCD with 921,000 dots
- Expeed 4 processing
- Easy panorama mode and beginner-friendly Guide mode
- Wi-Fi enabled with WU-1a Wireless Adapter and compatible smartphone or tablet (not included)
- SD/SDHC/SDXC memory
|Body type||Compact SLR|
|Max resolution||6000 x 4000|
|Other resolutions||4512 x 3000, 3008 x 2000|
|Image ratio w:h||3:2|
|Effective pixels||24 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||25 megapixels|
|Sensor size||APS-C (23.5 x 15.6 mm)|
|ISO||Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, 25600 (with boost)|
|White balance presets||12|
|Custom white balance||Yes|
|JPEG quality levels||Fine, Normal, Basic|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||11|
|Lens mount||Nikon F|
|Focal length multiplier||1.5×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT LCD (160 degree viewing angle)|
|Viewfinder type||Optical (pentamirror)|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/4000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (Pop-up)|
|Flash range||12.00 m (at ISO 100)|
|External flash||Yes (via hot shoe or wireless)|
|Flash modes||Auto, Auto slow sync, Auto slow sync with red-eye reduction, Auto with red-eye reduction, Fill-flash, Off, Rear-curtain sync, Rear-curtain with slow sync, Red-eye reduction, Red-eye reduction with slow sync, Slow sync|
|Continuous drive||5.0 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (2, 5, 10, 20 secs (1-9 exposures))|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV steps)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps), 640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (mini HDMI)|
|Wireless notes||WU-1a Wireless Mobile Adapter|
|Remote control||Yes (Optional)|
|Battery description||EN-EL14a lithium-ion battery and charger|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||700|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||430 g (0.95 lb / 15.17 oz)|
|Dimensions||124 x 98 x 76 mm (4.88 x 3.86 x 2.99″)|
Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category at the time of review.
|Ergonomics & handling||
|Metering & focus accuracy||
|Image quality (raw)||
|Image quality (jpeg)||
|Low light / high ISO performance||
|Viewfinder / screen rating||
|Movie / video mode||
The Nikon D3300 is an entry-level DSLR with an impressive spec list, including a 24 megapixel sensor and 1080/60p HD video recording. It provides the right level of controls for a beginner, offers a number of in-camera retouch options, and boasts excellent battery life.
A beginner specifically looking for a DSLR experience who may want to eventually take a little control over shooting settings.
Not So Good For
Moving back was actually a move forward.
I've owned a number of Nikon DSLRs, including D70, D50, D80, D5000 and D5100. In 2011 I switched to a Fujifilm X10 for compactness and portability. Later I bought a Fujifilm X-S1 to complement the X10 with a 24-264mm range. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon some very good D3300 images, and it piqued my interest. I downloaded some raw images from a review site, and processed them with ViewNX2. They were stunning! I'm a week into my D3300 experience as an owner. I have the 18-55 VR II kit lens ...
What is the best camera for a visually-impaired photographer?
Hello, guys and gals! I am thinking about buying a DSLR/mirrorless camera and I need your help in choosing one. If I had to describe my vision problem, I would say that normal vision is like a long telephoto lens, while my eyes are wide-angle primes. I see everything much smaller than people with normal vision, but colors and focus/sharpness are not a problem. I would like to find a camera more suited for me, but it also MUST be a good interchangeable-lens camera, I won't buy another compact again. I bought the Fujifilm FinePix S4000 2 years ago and I only like one thing about it: its looong zoom (one of the longest at the time, equiv. to 700mm+ on a FF.) Image quality is bad even in good light, white balance and focus are terrible in low light. I went for a cheaper "superzoom" and I regretted not buying a DSLR. I compose using both the LCD screen and the EVF, since I rely on autofocus and I see well enough to frame the picture. However, it would be nice if I had a larger viewfinder. ...
Viewfinders have three ratings: Magnification, coverage, and crop factor. The image size is: Magnification * coverage / crop factor If you want a big image, you want a low crop factor. Full frame is the way to go. If you cannot do full frame, a decent EVF will beat even the nicest APS OVFs. A Sony A77 viewfinder has a magnification of 0.72x. For comparison, a D7100 is 0.61x. A 70D is 0.59x, and only 95% coverage. An A6000 is 0.70x. I have good vision, and I really don't enjoy using APS OVFs all that much, even on the very high end. If you step down to a 100D or a D3200, the OVFs are painfully bad -- 0.54x and 0.5x respectively with 95% coverage. On the Sony end, I would look much more at the A-mount than E-mount. A-mount lens options are probably better in your price range than Canon/Nikon, at least if you want image stabilization. Wide aperture primes on A-mount all become stabilized. That's super-nice. Continue Reading
Difficult to say what you need to assist you with using a camera, but I cam across the following for videography. It clips over the lcd screen on your camera and magnifies the display a little. Might be worth visiting a store somewhere to try one out. I've only seen one on a canon camera, but am sure they are available for other makes and models.. http://paulmichaelegan.wordpress.com/2012/02/05/2-8x-lcd-view-finder-viewer-extender-v2-for-canon-550d-nikon-d90/ Hope that helps a little! Continue Reading
Thanks. I've seen a video of something like that on Youtube. But I'd probably end up not using it because it makes the camera so much bigger. Maybe a magnified eyepiece would be better? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/387769-REG/Nikon_4793_DK_17M_Magnifying_Eyepiece_for.html Continue Reading
I'm a noob, just bought a Nikon D3300 a couple of months ago. I'm also a history buff, so I decided that my first self imposed project is to photograph the historic buildings in my hometown of Mount Vernon, Ohio, and this is the first. I did process this with Lighroom, a noob at that also, adjusted the highlights and shadows, but not much more. I'm pretty pleased with the results, from a noob point of view. But I did notice one odd detail. Across the top of the flags and building is a white outline. This is present in the original photo before Lightroom, just stands out more post Lightroom. What caused this? Shot with the 18-55mm VR II kit lens, F10, iso200, 32.0mm And thanks to Dpreview and members, has helped me a lot getting started. Jim Linkous
Did you shoot raw or JPG? (See below). There are two possible reasons. First, sharpening. Although we commonly talk about the sharpness of an image the term really covers two related things: resolution and acutance. Think of two equal sets of parallel lines, black on white and grey on white. If you look at them closely you'll be able to make out both sets, but as you pull back the grey set will soon merge to a uniform smear. The black set will eventually do that too but only from further back. The sets are equal - they have the same resolution - but the black set looks crisper. That's because there's more contrast at the edges - black-to-white is easier to make out than grey-to-white - higher acutance. When we apply "sharpening" to our images what we really do is increase local contrast at the edges. Software slightly darkens a zone on the darker side of an edge and slightly lightens a zone on the brighter side of it. We tend not to notice the darker zone. What stands out is the ... Continue Reading
There's a well-known photography pundit who recommends very high levels of in-camera "sharpen", along with a lot of other nonsense. It could be that the OP has been influenced by some "suggested settings". I'm usually content with JPEG for recreational photography, but I do some RAW as well. I try to get everything close as possible "In-camera", and that's probably a good idea for the OP at his stage of development. The JPEGs will, at the very least, be good reference shots while PP skills are developed; some experience at PP sharpen will soon wean anyone of sharpen in-camera. Continue Reading
Good job on the courthouse picture. You're doing everything right - keeping the camera level, the ISO down, and the lens zoomed to the middle of its range where it works best. f/10 might be half a stop more than you need - f/8 would probably be plenty for the depth of field needed. That's a very small point. When you posted your first picture, iljitsch commented that it could have used a bit more head room above the building. I think this new shot is a bit crowded there too. It wouldn't hurt to have a little extra sky. Good luck with your project! Continue Reading
Night shooting w/Nikon D3300
Hello, so I just got a D3300 and went downtown to do some night shooting and to my chagrin I was unable to see a preview of exposure changes while in live view under normal shooting operation. Not to mention the fact that I can't change aperture settings while in live view, but I realize the hardware limitation there. I can switch to manual movie mode and that will show exposure changes but then it wont allow me to reduce down below a 1/30th shutter speed. My problem is that when shooting a dark subject I need to be able to see it in order to focus on it. The trick I found that helps is that I can switch to movie mode, and crank up the ISO, then digizoom in and focus, then turn the ISO back down to a reasonable level, turn the movie mode off so that I can now reduce the shutter speed down so that I can have proper exposure. However annoying that may be, it works... unless the subject is super dim. I was just trying to get a shot of my car in super dim light and even with the shutter ...
Right. Nikon don't do that. It's not really intended for use with live view. It has lousy live view. Use the viewfinder. Well, if the shutter speed is longer than 1/30th it won't be able to shoot 30 frames per second. It's too dark to see through the viewfinder? That seems like it's too dark to take a picture. Use the viewfinder. It's that window over the LCD display. Continue Reading
Leonard, to my knowledge the viewfinder does not show exposure changes and therefore would not allow me to see my subject for focusing. And yes, I understand why it can't go below 1/30th in movie mode. I believe one of the reasons why I have the option of decreasing my shutter speed is to take photos of dimly lit subjects. I can take the same photo with my friends T3i so I don't know how you can definitively say that it's too dark to take a picture when you can't see it through the viewfinder. Why would you try to make rules that stifle creativity? Additionally, the digital zoom doesn't work with the viewfinder so getting crisp focus on distant subjects is more difficult, especially for a beginner like me. You're reply wasn't constructive in the least. Continue Reading
Leonard, to my knowledge the viewfinder does not show exposure changes and therefore would not allow me to see my subject for focusing. And yes, I understand why it can't go below 1/30th in movie mode. I believe one of the reasons why I have the option of decreasing my shutter speed is to take photos of dimly lit subjects. I can take the same photo with my friends T3i so I don't know how you can definitively say that it's too dark to take a picture when you can't see it through the viewfinder. Why would you try to make rules that stifle creativity? Additionally, the digital zoom doesn't work with the viewfinder so getting crisp focus on distant subjects is more difficult, especially for a beginner like me. You're reply wasn't constructive in the least. Hey? What if we started a petition to get Nikon to make a firmware update to show exposure changes in liveview apart from movie mode? That's a dumb idea isn't it? Continue Reading
Have your own question?
"No registration or "warranty" card is included or needed with a Nikon D-SLR or Coolpix camera. Keep your original, dated proof of purchase from the Authorized Nikon Inc. dealer in case warranty service is ever needed. These products do include either a mail-in form or a paper with a web link to our registration page:
It's advised to register your product with Nikon so that we can send you information about future updates or service issues that may arise.
Nikkor lenses come with a standard one year warranty and Nikon Inc. lenses sold by authorized Nikon Inc. dealers will have a Nikon Inc. Five Year Extension. To register for the five year extension, one copy of the included form must be mailed in as indicated. Keep the Customer copy of the form as well as the original proof of purchase (sales receipt)."
DPReview GearShop is an authorized Nikon dealer in the United States.