The Nikon D3300 continues on the path of its entry-level DSLR predecessors, with plenty of built-in shooting and retouch modes, a small footprint, and beginner-friendly user interface. It has a 24.2 megapixel CMOS sensor with no optical low-pass filter, as well as an Expeed 4 image processor. The camera's ISO range tops out at 25,600 and continuous shooting up to 5 fps. The D3300 can also record 1080/60p full HD video. A newly redesigned collapsible, 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 VR II kit lens comes with the D3300. Optional wireless sharing to smartphones or tablets can be accomplished via Nikon's WU-1a module or an Eye-Fi SD card.
Nikon D3300 DSLR Camera with Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II Lens
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- 24.2 MP CMOS DX-format sensor
- 5 frames per second continuous shooting
- 11 AF points with 3D tracking
- ISO 100-12800 (expandable to 25600)
- 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps) HD video (MPEG-4/H.264/MOV)
- 3 inch LCD with 921,000 dots
- Expeed 4 processing
- Easy panorama mode and beginner-friendly Guide mode
- Wi-Fi enabled with WU-1a Wireless Adapter and compatible smartphone or tablet (not included)
- SD/SDHC/SDXC memory
|Body type||Compact SLR|
|Max resolution||6000 x 4000|
|Other resolutions||4512 x 3000, 3008 x 2000|
|Image ratio w:h||3:2|
|Effective pixels||24 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||25 megapixels|
|Sensor size||APS-C (23.5 x 15.6 mm)|
|ISO||Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, 25600 (with boost)|
|White balance presets||12|
|Custom white balance||Yes|
|JPEG quality levels||Fine, Normal, Basic|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||11|
|Lens mount||Nikon F|
|Focal length multiplier||1.5×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT LCD (160 degree viewing angle)|
|Viewfinder type||Optical (pentamirror)|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/4000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (Pop-up)|
|Flash range||12.00 m (at ISO 100)|
|External flash||Yes (via hot shoe or wireless)|
|Flash modes||Auto, Auto slow sync, Auto slow sync with red-eye reduction, Auto with red-eye reduction, Fill-flash, Off, Rear-curtain sync, Rear-curtain with slow sync, Red-eye reduction, Red-eye reduction with slow sync, Slow sync|
|Continuous drive||5 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (2, 5, 10, 20 secs (1-9 exposures))|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV steps)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps), 640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (mini HDMI)|
|Wireless notes||WU-1a Wireless Mobile Adapter|
|Remote control||Yes (Optional)|
|Battery description||EN-EL14a lithium-ion battery and charger|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||700|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||430 g (0.95 lb / 15.17 oz)|
|Dimensions||124 x 98 x 76 mm (4.88 x 3.86 x 2.99″)|
Upgrading from D3100 - D3300 or D5100?
Hey, this is my first post here :) I've had the D3100 for a while now but looking to upgrade. I was thinking of either the D3300 or the D5100. The D5100 looks much better on paper (I've been looking at this comparison) but the D3300 seems pretty even and it's much newer? Would it be silly not to get the D5100 just because it's older? They cost about the same. Thanks!
But why the change, what do you think the new camera can do that you current one can not. Then we might be able to advise. By the way most people would not think of your plan as a upgrade but merely as a renew. A d7100 would be an upgrade. Continue Reading
If you don't tell us in what ways the d3100 is not meeting your needs it will be hard to predict whether either of the two you are looking at will meet them better. Continue Reading
Nikon D3000 series or D5000 series for a rookie
Hello- I know there have been several similar posts regarding this same question so pardon me if this is a repeat... I am shopping for my first DSLR. I am tired of using a P&S and ready to start learning more about photography. I am having a tough time deciding on the D3200, D3300, D5200, or D5300. I want something I won't get "bored with" in the next few years but at the same time I don't want a camera too advanced for a beginner. I don't expect to get great shots right out of the box but I would like a smaller learning curve to get decent shots quick using auto settings. I am not looking to take pictures professionally, I just want to capture some great shots of my kids. In addition, would you recommend purchasing a kit with the typical 18-55mm? Or going with a stand alone and adding a nicer lens? Eventually (sooner than later) I know that I will buy a 50mm f/1.4 lens. My price point is (preferably) under $1K. Greatly appreciate your thoughts and advice!! Many thanks!
There is no smaller learning curve between a D3200 or a more sophisticated model. You will have to learn the basics of shooting with a DSLR no matter what kind. The more sophisticated models have more options, will perform better in low light situations, have better autofocus etc. etc. when you are really serious about going DSLR I would look at a D7000/D7100 with a 18-105 lens. With a small amount more you have a great 50mm 1.8D (this is the plastic fantastic of the nifty fifties) You can use this lens because the body has a lensmotor inside. (D3xxx .... D5xxx do NOT have a motor inside so old lenses will not work with autofocus on these bodies.) If the D7xxx are beyond your budget, go for the D5300 Continue Reading
Well, if you want to have it simple and additionally keep your costs low I would recommend a D3100 or a D3200 with a Nikkor 18-105 lens. Both bodies are capable, very reasonably priced, offer very nice IQ, are light so carrying them around for a long time is easy and both would be a perfect fit for casual kid photography. If, after a while, you decide to treat photography more seriously you will find a multitude of manual settings available - as you are coming from a P&S world using LCD menus should not be a problem, in fact it may even be more natural than modifying settings with buttons and wheel dials. D5xxx series would be great too but more expensive. Continue Reading
I agree on that. For someone like the OP, making a leap from a p&s kind of camera, the D3100/3200 is enough of a camera to keep them busy for quite some time. Here's my advice, based on my long (and painfully acquired) experience: - Get the cheapest Nikon you can get your hands on. It could be a used model or a new one, but you need nothing more than the entry-level at this point. Again, let me emphasize: there is NO difference in terms of being able to get the exposure between a D3100 and a D4. What the one can do, the other can too. More expensive cameras are more about functions and control you don't even know you're missing now. (example: if you don't know what's commander mode and how to use it, you don't need it right yet) - Get a cheap but capable basic lens, like the 18-105 you were suggested. It will keep you going for quite some time. - When you need something else, you will notice it first yourself. Almost certainly (especially if you learn the right way, that is, through ... Continue Reading
Upgrade Nikon 55-200 Non VR to VR?
Hi all I own a D3300 body with the following lenses, 18-55 VR II lens, 35mm f/1.8 and 55-200mm (no-VR). So generally light body and light lenses. I'm not looking to use the 55-200 in low light conditions, that's what the 35mm is for so would only be used outdoor in daylight. I'm a member of a German Shepherd dog club where we train for IPO trial competitions, so I would generally use the zoom on days when we have trials since I cannot be on the field. During normal training days I can stand wherever I need to. I successfully used the 55-200 during a recent trial and managed to generally get great action shots. I'm still pretty new to photography so I'm still learning to pan etc. I never noticed the lens struggling to focus on the dogs which are moving quite quickly at times. However there were shots that weren't in focus and when the dogs were at the other end of the field or certain sections of it, 200 wasn't enough. In theory I would only need the 300mm maybe 3-4 times a year so ...
I have a 55-200 VR and to be honest, really dislike the build quality, but am somewhat happy with the optics. I don't think the VR supports the panning mode, so if you take a lot of shots panning, the VR may not really help out that much. Continue Reading
When you say you only really need 300 3-4 times a year, I assume by this you mean you need to shoot at 300mm because cropping would diminish IQ too much. If not you don't need it at all. One point to bear in mind is that any x-300 telezoom which is not pro quality will get soft towards the end of the range, but is likely to beat an x-200 at around 200. Continue Reading
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