The Nikon D3300 continues on the path of its entry-level DSLR predecessors, with plenty of built-in shooting and retouch modes, a small footprint, and beginner-friendly user interface. It has a 24.2 megapixel CMOS sensor with no optical low-pass filter, as well as an Expeed 4 image processor. The camera's ISO range tops out at 25,600 and continuous shooting up to 5 fps. The D3300 can also record 1080/60p full HD video. A newly redesigned collapsible, 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 VR II kit lens comes with the D3300. Optional wireless sharing to smartphones or tablets can be accomplished via Nikon's WU-1a module or an Eye-Fi SD card.
Nikon D3300 DSLR Camera with Nikon AF-S DX Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR II Lens
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“ Some in-camera tools for creativity and processing are provided, but the D3300's real strength is high quality, high resolution images that will more than satisfy a beginner.”
- 24.2 MP CMOS DX-format sensor
- 5 frames per second continuous shooting
- 11 AF points with 3D tracking
- ISO 100-12800 (expandable to 25600)
- 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps) HD video (MPEG-4/H.264/MOV)
- 3 inch LCD with 921,000 dots
- Expeed 4 processing
- Easy panorama mode and beginner-friendly Guide mode
- Wi-Fi enabled with WU-1a Wireless Adapter and compatible smartphone or tablet (not included)
- SD/SDHC/SDXC memory
|Body type||Compact SLR|
|Max resolution||6000 x 4000|
|Other resolutions||4512 x 3000, 3008 x 2000|
|Image ratio w:h||3:2|
|Effective pixels||24 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||25 megapixels|
|Sensor size||APS-C (23.5 x 15.6 mm)|
|ISO||Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800, 25600 (with boost)|
|White balance presets||12|
|Custom white balance||Yes|
|JPEG quality levels||Fine, Normal, Basic|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||11|
|Lens mount||Nikon F|
|Focal length multiplier||1.5×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT LCD (160 degree viewing angle)|
|Viewfinder type||Optical (pentamirror)|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/4000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (Pop-up)|
|Flash range||12.00 m (at ISO 100)|
|External flash||Yes (via hot shoe or wireless)|
|Flash modes||Auto, Auto slow sync, Auto slow sync with red-eye reduction, Auto with red-eye reduction, Fill-flash, Off, Rear-curtain sync, Rear-curtain with slow sync, Red-eye reduction, Red-eye reduction with slow sync, Slow sync|
|Continuous drive||5 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (2, 5, 10, 20 secs (1-9 exposures))|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV steps)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (60, 50, 30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (60, 50 fps), 640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (mini HDMI)|
|Wireless notes||WU-1a Wireless Mobile Adapter|
|Remote control||Yes (Optional)|
|Battery description||EN-EL14a lithium-ion battery and charger|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||700|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||430 g (0.95 lb / 15.17 oz)|
|Dimensions||124 x 98 x 76 mm (4.88 x 3.86 x 2.99″)|
Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category at the time of review.
|Ergonomics & handling||
|Metering & focus accuracy||
|Image quality (raw)||
|Image quality (jpeg)||
|Low light / high ISO performance||
|Viewfinder / screen rating||
|Movie / video mode||
The Nikon D3300 is an entry-level DSLR with an impressive spec list, including a 24 megapixel sensor and 1080/60p HD video recording. It provides the right level of controls for a beginner, offers a number of in-camera retouch options, and boasts excellent battery life.
A beginner specifically looking for a DSLR experience who may want to eventually take a little control over shooting settings.
Not So Good For
Those looking for lots of easily accessible, reliable in-camera effects modes and features, Wi-Fi, fast focusing in live view, and those who want to regularly take control over more camera settings.
Moving back was actually a move forward.
I've owned a number of Nikon DSLRs, including D70, D50, D80, D5000 and D5100. In 2011 I switched to a Fujifilm X10 for compactness and portability. Later I bought a Fujifilm X-S1 to complement the X10 with a 24-264mm range. A few weeks ago I stumbled upon some very good D3300 images, and it piqued my interest. I downloaded some raw images from a review site, and processed them with ViewNX2. They were stunning! I'm a week into my D3300 experience as an owner. I have the 18-55 VR II kit lens ...
What is the best DX Nikon for noise?
I'll admit this is a bit of a long shot, as it's a very technical question, but here we go... Which is the best Nikon DX camera for low-light performance? That is, which performs best in terms of noise? It's time to upgrade my D60, and it's a great time to do it because Nikon has so many models on the market, past models are an absolute steal on ebay. It's a choice between the D3100, D3200, D3300, D5100, D5200, D5300. Although the D7000 is lovely, I don't want a camera that big and heavy - the small size and weight of the smaller models is important for me. I've scoured dpreview.com and there doesn't seem to be much difference between these models. Higher resolution = more noise BUT = more detail which kind of makes up for the increased noise. Very confusing!
The D3200, D3300, D5200 and D5300 all have very similar noise levels at the same ISO. The D5300 and D5200 do 14 bit in the camera for the image processing pipeline, so they are a bit better than the D3200 and D3300, but only at the very, very extremes. As for even older models, the D3000 has the same 10 MP sensor that is found in your D60, but without the old Nikon colors so skip it, so matter how cheap it is. The D3100 is 14 MP and a decent camera, but the D3200 and D3300 are better. The D5000 has the same sensor as the D90 and is a slight step up regarding noise and White Balance in incandescent light, however the D5100, D5200 and D5300 are even better. The D5100 is a fine camera at 16 MP and the first camera (in this series) that you can get decent results at ISO 6400 if you are careful with exposure and if you are shooting in light near 5000-5600 Kelvin (sunlight). So I would put the D5000 as very marginal unless bought for a song, the D3100 and D5100 are only worth looking into ... Continue Reading
You are correct! It used to be bad... Here is a shot I took last week at ISO 1600 using my D200: I applied some Topaz Denoise and its usable: So yes, the older cameras are BAD for high ISO. However, they type of noise they create does clean up very easily. I don't shoot high ISO much so I still use the D200. Continue Reading
Night shooting w/Nikon D3300
Hello, so I just got a D3300 and went downtown to do some night shooting and to my chagrin I was unable to see a preview of exposure changes while in live view under normal shooting operation. Not to mention the fact that I can't change aperture settings while in live view, but I realize the hardware limitation there. I can switch to manual movie mode and that will show exposure changes but then it wont allow me to reduce down below a 1/30th shutter speed. My problem is that when shooting a dark subject I need to be able to see it in order to focus on it. The trick I found that helps is that I can switch to movie mode, and crank up the ISO, then digizoom in and focus, then turn the ISO back down to a reasonable level, turn the movie mode off so that I can now reduce the shutter speed down so that I can have proper exposure. However annoying that may be, it works... unless the subject is super dim. I was just trying to get a shot of my car in super dim light and even with the shutter ...
Right. Nikon don't do that. It's not really intended for use with live view. It has lousy live view. Use the viewfinder. Well, if the shutter speed is longer than 1/30th it won't be able to shoot 30 frames per second. It's too dark to see through the viewfinder? That seems like it's too dark to take a picture. Use the viewfinder. It's that window over the LCD display. Continue Reading
Leonard, to my knowledge the viewfinder does not show exposure changes and therefore would not allow me to see my subject for focusing. And yes, I understand why it can't go below 1/30th in movie mode. I believe one of the reasons why I have the option of decreasing my shutter speed is to take photos of dimly lit subjects. I can take the same photo with my friends T3i so I don't know how you can definitively say that it's too dark to take a picture when you can't see it through the viewfinder. Why would you try to make rules that stifle creativity? Additionally, the digital zoom doesn't work with the viewfinder so getting crisp focus on distant subjects is more difficult, especially for a beginner like me. You're reply wasn't constructive in the least. Continue Reading
Leonard, to my knowledge the viewfinder does not show exposure changes and therefore would not allow me to see my subject for focusing. And yes, I understand why it can't go below 1/30th in movie mode. I believe one of the reasons why I have the option of decreasing my shutter speed is to take photos of dimly lit subjects. I can take the same photo with my friends T3i so I don't know how you can definitively say that it's too dark to take a picture when you can't see it through the viewfinder. Why would you try to make rules that stifle creativity? Additionally, the digital zoom doesn't work with the viewfinder so getting crisp focus on distant subjects is more difficult, especially for a beginner like me. You're reply wasn't constructive in the least. Hey? What if we started a petition to get Nikon to make a firmware update to show exposure changes in liveview apart from movie mode? That's a dumb idea isn't it? Continue Reading
I'm a noob, just bought a Nikon D3300 a couple of months ago. I'm also a history buff, so I decided that my first self imposed project is to photograph the historic buildings in my hometown of Mount Vernon, Ohio, and this is the first. I did process this with Lighroom, a noob at that also, adjusted the highlights and shadows, but not much more. I'm pretty pleased with the results, from a noob point of view. But I did notice one odd detail. Across the top of the flags and building is a white outline. This is present in the original photo before Lightroom, just stands out more post Lightroom. What caused this? Shot with the 18-55mm VR II kit lens, F10, iso200, 32.0mm And thanks to Dpreview and members, has helped me a lot getting started. Jim Linkous
Did you shoot raw or JPG? (See below). There are two possible reasons. First, sharpening. Although we commonly talk about the sharpness of an image the term really covers two related things: resolution and acutance. Think of two equal sets of parallel lines, black on white and grey on white. If you look at them closely you'll be able to make out both sets, but as you pull back the grey set will soon merge to a uniform smear. The black set will eventually do that too but only from further back. The sets are equal - they have the same resolution - but the black set looks crisper. That's because there's more contrast at the edges - black-to-white is easier to make out than grey-to-white - higher acutance. When we apply "sharpening" to our images what we really do is increase local contrast at the edges. Software slightly darkens a zone on the darker side of an edge and slightly lightens a zone on the brighter side of it. We tend not to notice the darker zone. What stands out is the ... Continue Reading
There's a well-known photography pundit who recommends very high levels of in-camera "sharpen", along with a lot of other nonsense. It could be that the OP has been influenced by some "suggested settings". I'm usually content with JPEG for recreational photography, but I do some RAW as well. I try to get everything close as possible "In-camera", and that's probably a good idea for the OP at his stage of development. The JPEGs will, at the very least, be good reference shots while PP skills are developed; some experience at PP sharpen will soon wean anyone of sharpen in-camera. Continue Reading
Good job on the courthouse picture. You're doing everything right - keeping the camera level, the ISO down, and the lens zoomed to the middle of its range where it works best. f/10 might be half a stop more than you need - f/8 would probably be plenty for the depth of field needed. That's a very small point. When you posted your first picture, iljitsch commented that it could have used a bit more head room above the building. I think this new shot is a bit crowded there too. It wouldn't hurt to have a little extra sky. Good luck with your project! Continue Reading
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