The Nikon D4 is a 16MP full-frame professional DSLR capable of shooting at 11 frames per second (or 10fps with continuous AF). In addition to a host of ergonomic improvements compared to its predecessor the D3S, the D4 also boasts expanded video capabilities, to the extent that Nikon is describing it as a 'multi-media DSLR.' The camera gains an ethernet port, a 91,000 pixel metering sensor and an uprated AF sensor that can work in lower light and with smaller aperture lenses. Its sensitivity range can be expanded to a maximum equivalent to ISO 204,800 and adds back-lit top and rear controls to make it easier to operate in low-light situations. The D4 also becomes the first camera to make use of the XQD memory card format.
Nikon D4 DSLR Camera, Body Only
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“ The D4 is built for speed and versatility. It might not offer the highest resolution on the market, but it is designed to deliver its 16MP images at a rate of 11 per second in all winds and weathers.”
- 16MP FX-format (full-frame) sensor
- 51-point AF system with 3D tracking
- 91,000-Pixel RGB 3D Color Matrix Metering III
- ISO 100-12800, expandable to 204,800
- 3.0 inch LCD with 921,000 dots
- 1080p/24p uncompressed 8-bit 4.2.2 HD video recording (.MOV/MP4)
- 11 frames per second max continuous shooting (with exposure and focus fixed from 1st exposure)
- 100% viewfinder
- Dual Compact Flash and XQD memory card slots
- Shutter tested to 400,000 actuations
- Wireless transmitter compatible (sold separately) plus built-in wired LAN
- Rugged magnesium alloy body, sealed against moisture, dust and electromagnetic interference
- Built-in intervalometer for time-lapse shooting
- AF detection up to f/8
|Body type||Large SLR|
|Max resolution||4928 x 3280|
|Other resolutions||4096 x 2720, 4096 x 3280, 3696 x 2456, 3200 x 2128, 3072 x 2456, 3072 x 2040, 2464 x 1640, 2400 x 1592, 2048 x 1360, 2048 x 1640, 1600 x 1064|
|Image ratio w:h||5:4, 3:2|
|Effective pixels||16 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||17 megapixels|
|Sensor size||Full frame (36 x 23.9 mm)|
|ISO||100, 200, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800 (204800 with boost)|
|White balance presets||12|
|Custom white balance||Yes (4)|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||51|
|Lens mount||Nikon F|
|Focal length multiplier||1×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT color LCD with brightness control|
|Viewfinder type||Optical (pentaprism)|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/8000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|External flash||Yes (Hot-shoe, Wireless plus sync connector)|
|Flash modes||Auto, On, Off, Front curtain, Rear curtain, Red-Eye, Slow Sync, High Speed Sync|
|Continuous drive||11.0 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (2-20 seconds, 1-9 exposures at intervals of 0.5, 1, 2, or 3 seconds)|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV, 1 EV steps)|
|AE Bracketing||(2, 3, 5, 7 frames at 1/3 EV, 1/2 EV, 2/3 EV steps)|
|WB Bracketing||Yes (2-9 frames in steps of 1, 2, or 3)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (30, 25, 24 fps), 1280 x 720 (60, 50, 30, 25 fps), 640 x 424 (30, 25 fps)|
|Storage types||CompactFlash, XQD|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (Type C )|
|Wireless notes||via WT-5, WT-5A|
|Remote control||Yes (via ten-pin remote terminal)|
|Environmentally sealed||Yes (Water and dust resistant)|
|Battery description||Lithium-Ion EN-EL18 rechargeable battery & charger|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||1340 g (2.95 lb / 47.27 oz)|
|Dimensions||160 x 157 x 91 mm (6.3 x 6.18 x 3.58″)|
|Timelapse recording||Yes (Playback speed 24x to 36000x )|
|GPS notes||GP-1 or GPS device compliant with NMEA0183 version 2.01 or 3.01 (requires optional MC-35 GPS adapter cord and cable with D-sub 9-pin connector)|
good image quality Problems: low resolution
owned D1X, D2X, D3X but the D4 is the new flagship
After a long pre-order wait from Berger Bros, Brad called me out of the blue with the arrival of my D4. As I traded my D3X in, I was eager to get my hands on it. My concern was downgrading pixels from 24.5 to 16mp due to commercial & industrial trade show presentations which require large presentations. With that fear, I also ordered a D800. The first thing I noticed about the D4 was how it appeared lighter in your hands, yet it isn't. There is virtually no clipping in JPGs outdoor whereas ...
D4 vs D3S
I had the possibility to compare today my D3S with the new D4, I made several pictures with each camera in low light conditions with the 24-70 lens fixed at 2.8, all the settings were the same, ISO where going from 1600 to 204800. The results were in favor of the D3S, the Nikon responsable told me that this is due to the sowftware which is not the definitive one. Before buying the D4, I will test it again with the latest firmware, I will also test it against the Canon 1DX.
D4 at work and play
Nikon did well with this proprietary sensor - Color and tonal transition a definite step up. Should we have to pay the high price for 100% dependability? No. Is it 100% dependable? Yes! 16MB is fine for my work - Corporate event, portrait, travel and product/still life photography. Beautiful refined body and ergonomics. Problems: The separate XQD card and reader is a hinderance.
Lightroom v 4.2 overheating my iMac
Hi All, I posted this in the Nikon section as well ....... I am using an old 2006 model Imac 2.16 with 3GB of RAM. Also, I am a long time LR and PS user and am currently using LR version 4.2 and CS6. I installed LR v4.0 when it first came out and had no issues with it at all. I have processed large volumes of images from 5D2, D300, D700, D3S, D4 and D800 with no issue (albeit the D800 is a little slow on my iMac) and no overheating. I recently upgraded the software to LR version 4.2 and now I am having severe issues with overheating. I have a heat monitor installed on my Imac. It typically runs at about 35 degrees but as soon as I open LR 4.2 the temp raises to around 50 degrees and my Imac starts to freeze up. I don't even need to be in the develop module. It overheats in the Library module as well. This seems to be an issue with LR4.2 only as I have no overheating issue with CS6 or CS5 and non with version 4.0. I can process images in Photoshop all day without an issue. So, the ...
Don't know if this would work or not, but I use a third party fan control program with my MacBook Pro called "Fan Control" by SMC. It's a simple "Haxie" that installs in your System Preferences, and you can set the initial fan speed and the upper and lower temperature limits. It has dramatically reduced the "roaring fans" on my MBP, and it has, at the same time, kept it cooler. Just don't know if it will work with an older iMac. Continue Reading
Hi All, Sorry for the late reply on this forum. I greatly appreciate the positive feedback from all. As mentioned in my OP I had intended to upgrade to the latest Imac in December when it is released here. As I understand, the screens are still going to be glossy even though they will have 70% less reflection. I skipped a few generations of Imac due to the glossy screens and am not very keen on going with the new one now that I know it is also glossy. Although I will give Apple the benefit of the doubt and wait to actually see them in the shop before making a final call. I thought the mac mini with a good quality matte screen would be a good option but it appears that the graphics card cannot be upgraded on these so that might rule out that option. The mac guy in the Apple store (Not a sales guy but the Mac expert) suggested that the Mac mini would probably not be suitable for my needs due to this reason. Anyway. thanks again for the help. Cheers! Continue Reading
have you ever blown out the dust from the machine? After that many years, fans and parts get dust encrusted. After that, you really dont have much choice other than to punt back to LR3 and wait out the new iMacs. you could try a little clip-on fan on top of the iMac case to blow air into the unit too. You may also want to see if having fewer apps open when you run LR4 helps at all (keeps the memory swapping down) Continue Reading
Which one to choose for all purpose dslr - Nikon or Canon
Hi there, I was learning photography for more than 1 year and now I think its time to get a gear. But I am little confused with all the reviews out there in youtube - Whether to go with Nikon Line or the Canons. Now about me - I am an artist who does Graphic Design, 3D visualizations/animations, Web design, Audio/Video Editing & VFX. My need is to get a gear suitable for landscapes, events, portraits, documentary, short films, videos with slow motion, etc To begin with I think Crop sensor(with professional lenses) will be sufficient and am thinking to upgrade to a full frame on the go(As my current budget is limited). So keeping in mind that I will upgrade the body later, which one to choose - Nikon d7100 or Canon 7D (these are the two shortlisted ones). I think d7100 has more features & have better low light performance than 7D. Is there any moire/anti aliasing issues with d7100 or 7D ? So thats my confusion - If I go with Nikon family I may get a feature - full dslr now, but in ...
Hey pal. The above is how I read your request once I stripped away the non-essentials. For instance, I'm not saying you're not an artist. I just don't know yet. Moreover, I don't know how much study you did in photography. Without a camera, it's hart to tell how much would sink in. If it were me, probably not so much without a way to practice. You're mostly going to get a lot of nonsense from some of the Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony fans as well as some more honest information. People tend to sell what they own, understand and like. We all do. We want others to agree with our choices. It validates those decisions we made. An example is that guy called Beagle. He's a Canon owner. You can about always count on him to say he prefers Canon because of better image quality. See what I mean and he's typical with no images in his gallery or linked to anywhere else in his profile, and that's typical of many others. Promote what you own and claim better images, but can't show those better ... Continue Reading
You mention video almost as an afterthought. Unless you really want to use your DSLR for video a lot you might be better advised to concentrate on stills capability. If you do, I think it's fair to say that the top models (APS--C and FF) from all makers are capable of excellent image quality. They all have enough features to satisfy pretty well all photographic needs. However, they differ widely in the way they feel in your hand and the way their controls work. These usability factors are really the most important things about a camera: it's no use owning a camera if you don't like using it, because you'll be less likely to take it out. Here's an example that might seem trivial but sometimes it's the little things that matter. My brother has several Nikon DSLRs. He likes them a lot. Along the inside edge of the grip (where your right-hand fingers go) there's a raised strip: I think it's intended to improve the security of the grip. When I hold those cameras the strip hits exactly ... Continue Reading
d4 quality button
Hi all, Does anyone know if it is possible to deactivate the quality button on the back of the d4, I accidentally changed mine from raw to jpeg whilst fumbling in the dark changing iso settings. In reality I just want it set on raw, on the off chance I might want to change it happy to do it via the menu. Thanks in advance
Why does quality need a dedicated button? I've never turned the setting to anything other than RAW in many years, except for the few times by accident! That is one item that seems more suitable as a menu item. I doubt many people change that setting often enough to warrant a button very close to other buttons that get pressed more frequently with the chance that on a paid assignment they are suddenly shooting small jpegs! I'd like to see this quality button removed across the Nikon line or at least make it lockable or reassignable. Continue Reading
Why not just turn the lights on on the buttons so you can see which one is which? Continue Reading
hi sergio, thanks for the reply, my work dictates i shoot with two or three bodies at a time as there is no time too change lenses often in trying conditions, at high iso's, due to lowlight levels, i constantly juggle the iso as a default exposure adjustment, i.e. shoot wide open and st the minimum shutter speed for the lens that i,m comfortable with. the quality button is just too close to the iso button, twice i've accidentally changed quality instead of iso, there is no viewfinder indication of quality i would appreciate any other ideas, stu ps this is only an issue when working quickly in difficult circumstances, we are not all studio shooters Continue Reading
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- Nikon D4 Camera Body
- AN-DC7 strap
- EN-EL18 Rechargeable Li-ion Battery
- MH-26 Battery Charger
- UC-E15 USB Cable
- USB Cable Clip
- BF-1B Body Cap
- BS-2 Accessory Shoe Cover
- UF-2 Connector cover for stereo mini plug cable
- UF-1 Connector cover for USB cable
- Nikon View NX2 CD ROM
- Transmitter Utility CD
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