The Nikon 1 J3 is the successor to that manufacturer's series of entry-level mirrorless cameras. It employs a CX-format 1" 14.2MP sensor capable of full 1080 HD video. The J3 boasts an impressive 30 or 60 fps continuous shooting capability with focus locked on a single AF point, and with continuous AF burst shooting is available at 15 fps. The Nikon J3 is able to capture HD video and full resolution stills simultaneously, and offers a number of photo features including Smart Photo Selector, a shooting mode that captures 20 frames in succession and presents the shooter with the top five images. The J3 looks a lot like the previous 1 Js but sees the mode dial moved to the camera's top plate. It also has the ability to wirelessly share and transfer images when paired with the WU-1b Wireless Mobile Adapter.
Nikon 1 J3 Mirrorless Camera
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- 14.2MP 1"-type CMOS sensor
- 15 frames per second continuous shooting
- Hybrid phase and contrast detect AF system
- ISO 160-6400
- 1080 HD video
- 3.0 inch LCD with 921,000 dots
- Built-in stereo microphone
- Raw and Raw + JPEG shooting
- Pop-up flash
- Creative Mode in-camera filter effects
- SD/SDHC/SDXC card slot
|Body type||Rangefinder-style mirrorless|
|Max resolution||4608 x 3072|
|Image ratio w:h||3:2, 16:9|
|Effective pixels||14 megapixels|
|Sensor size||1″ (13.2 x 8.8 mm)|
|White balance presets||6|
|Custom white balance||Yes|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||135|
|Lens mount||Nikon 1 mount|
|Focal length multiplier||2.7×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT LCD|
|Minimum shutter speed||30 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/16000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (pop-up)|
|Flash range||5.00 m|
|Flash modes||Auto, On, Off, Red-eye, Slow sync, Rear curtain|
|Continuous drive||Yes (15 fps)|
|Exposure compensation||-3–5 (at 1/3 EV steps)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (60, 30 fps), 1280 x 720 (60 fps), 1072 x 720 (60 fps) 640 x 240 (400), 320 x 120 (1200)|
|Storage types||SD/SDHC/SDXC card|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (Type C)|
|Wireless notes||WU-1bb mobile adapter|
|Remote control||Yes (Optional ML-L3)|
|Battery description||Lithium-Ion EN-EL20 rechargeable battery & charger|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||201 g (0.44 lb / 7.09 oz)|
|Dimensions||101 x 61 x 29 mm (3.98 x 2.4 x 1.14″)|
Have tested this camera for some days. It´s a big disappointment. Pics are lacking details and aren´t crisp. Same thing regardless if JPEG or RAW. Noise performance is a shame for Nikon. Controls are frustrating as there are not enough buttons, e.g. there is no ISO button, you have to change ISO in the awkward menu. The 1 system is a joke, the price-tag just outrageous. You can get a decent DSLR for this price, a good mirrorless cam from other brands or a high-end-compact if you want small ...
Great Little Camera
I have owned a couple of DSLRs, like Nikons D40X, Sony Alpha 230 and Canons EOS 70D. They're awesome, but bulky, and hard to have around at any given time. I bought this camera in order to have the option of switching lenses and still have a compact camera. Happily, this camera has delivered on my expectations. I bought an 1.8f lens, which is pretty awesome for night pictures. I won't bore anyone with talk, since we all want to see pictures, so let me share my results. Hope this is helpful!
Best Mirrorless Camera on the Market ? Yes
A few years back if someone wrote that the Nikon 1 represents one of the best mirrorless camera's on the market I probably would have laughed: I mean a 1 inch sensor ? Small bodies with minimalist looks ? No retro styling ? Well times have changed and I have been fortunate (or stupid depending on your perspective) enough over the last few years to have owned quite a few bodies (the Olympus OMD EM5, The Sony NEX 3N, Fuji X100 to name a few). I have tried and tried, but nothing gave me ...
J3 compatible with ML-L3 or not
Dpreview says this camera compatible with ML-L3 INFRARED remote, however NIKON website does not say this camera compatible with ML-L3. Hope someone confirm this for me. Many thanks with your help.
Nikon 1 J3
Hi everybody! I just got a new Nikon 1 J3 and i do not have to much knowledge regarding this field(photography). My question is very simple. Which is the best lens to use for family event and traveling? I just want to have clear pictures and i like blurry effect in background . I think the best choice for me is 18.5mm. What you guys think?
I assume you have the kit lens that came with the camera. That is an excellent lens for general photography, but the 18.5 is a sweet lens and capable of taking much better pictures. I, as well as others, love this lens and it is a great value. If you want more reach than the kit lens or the 18.5, you should get the 30-110. Continue Reading
The best lens for that purpose is probably the 32mm f1.2, but it is also the most expensive lens for the system. That being said, 18.5mm is an excellent lens, that can be used for most everyday photography subjects. Read my review and take a look at the images I've posted there, to see what can be done with the 18.5mm. Continue Reading
Quadcopter carrying a Nikon J3 with 10mm lens?
Do you have any experience, or do you have recommendation which quadrocopter or quadcopter can carry a Nikon J3 (244g) with 10mm lens (77g)? The total weight including battery and lens is less than 330g. The J1 (277g) + 10mm would be around 360g. S1 (240) + 10mm is the same as J3 + 10mm. V1 (383g) + 10mm would be 460g, which might be too heavy. Thank You, Miki PS: Starting at 4:00 in the vimeo video (How of Why) of http://www.nikonusa.com/cinema/index.html#Why gave me the idea, that a Nikon 1 camera might be easier to lift with a less expensive quadcopter than lifting a 1340g body + a heavy FF lens.
Miki Nemeth wrote: Do you have any experience, or do you have recommendation which quadrocopter or quadcopter can carry a Nikon J3 (244g) with 10mm lens (77g)? The total weight including battery and lens is less than 330g. The J1 (277g) + 10mm would be around 360g. S1 (240) + 10mm is the same as J3 + 10mm. V1 (383g) + 10mm would be 460g, which might be too heavy. Thank You, Miki PS: Starting at 4:00 in the vimeo video (How of Why) of http://www.nikonusa.com/cinema/index.html#Why gave me the idea, that a Nikon 1 camera might be easier to lift with a less expensive quadcopter than lifting a 1340g body + a heavy FF lens. Hi Miki, This video might show an option. See a short section starting at about 3:58. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uHdEW69qZ2E Continue Reading
Miki Nemeth wrote: Do you have any experience, or do you have recommendation which quadrocopter or quadcopter can carry a Nikon J3 (244g) with 10mm lens (77g)? No experience, but send an email to Thom Hogan as an article on his site mentions using that exact same body and lens with a quadcopter: " I continue to marvel at the things I can sometimes do with the V2 that I can't with other cameras (e.g. it's not much of a payload for my quadcopter, at least the J1 with the 10mm" http://www.sansmirror.com/newsviews/on-safari-four-years-later.html Continue Reading
Miki Nemeth wrote: Do you have any experience, or do you have recommendation which quadrocopter or quadcopter can carry a Nikon J3 (244g) with 10mm lens (77g)? The total weight including battery and lens is less than 330g. The J1 (277g) + 10mm would be around 360g. S1 (240) + 10mm is the same as J3 + 10mm. V1 (383g) + 10mm would be 460g, which might be too heavy. Thank You, Miki PS: Starting at 4:00 in the vimeo video (How of Why) of http://www.nikonusa.com/cinema/index.html#Why gave me the idea, that a Nikon 1 camera might be easier to lift with a less expensive quadcopter than lifting a 1340g body + a heavy FF lens. Some recent videos of using quad copters with Go Pros got me enthused about purchasing one of the stronger quad copters. So I began reading about the experiences of many using them. Not entirely unusual for the copter to all of a sudden take off into the wild blue yonder or the deep blue. Many are blaming the manufacturers for product defects while the manufacturers ... Continue Reading
Dim exposure with J3 flash in P, S, A, M modes. Any suggestions?
First time posting on this forum and couldn't find a post on this subject. I just got the J3 and everything seems to work great with both the kit 10-30mm and the 18.5 lens without flash but I seem to have difficulties getting the proper exposure when I turn on the flash in these modes. All of my pictures seems very dim and can't seem to get the exposure correct. I tried using the night portrait mode and the pictures turn out a bit brighter but the processing time is too long. I would expect similar results when I have properly configured all my settings for the pictures to come out nice and bright. I can't see any ittl adjustments and I have even tried increasing the flash exposure without any luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? Do I have a defective flash? Is the flash primarily used only for fill flash during the day? Any suggestions would be great.
Do you see any differences in flash exposers between using the 10-30mm and the 18.5 lenses? In my opinion especially the N1 + 18.5mm combo have a general big tendency for flash underexposing, it's something seen on the V1 + SB-N5 too from start up with that lens when using flash. In contrast when using flash with the 10-30mm lens things behave usually differently and slightly better. Well especially flash photography is sadly a weak part for the N1 system, most of them are very weak and don't offer much reach. And when using the 18.5mm with flash the whole system has IMO somehow always flash exposer problems. Looks to me that Nikon missed to optimize things the right way here. Continue Reading
I have a J1 (and also a V1, but it has no onboard flash) and I find the flash not particulary weak (though not very strong either). Maybe the problem lies in the combination of flash and AutoISO. Just set the ISO to 400 instead of AutoISO and see what results you get. When I test the J1 with the 10mm pancake lens: 10mm @ f/2.8 at ISO 100, distance 10 feet -> underexposed 10mm @ f/2.8 at ISO 400, same distance -> well exposed Repeat that excercise with the 18.5mm prime: 18.5mm @ f/2.8 at ISO 100, distance 10 feet -> underexposed 18.5mm @ f/2.8 at ISO 400, same distance -> well exposed When I try this with my D80 or D7100 I notice it has a bit more powerful flash, but I tend to get simular results. At ISO 100 the reach is only a few feet. Do you want more reach? Well, just up the ISO to 200 or 400. And for shooting with a lens that can only go as wide as f/5.6, like the 10-30 at 30mm you may even have to put the ISO up an extra notch. Continue Reading
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