The Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM1 is a tiny Micro Four Thirds camera that can literally fit in the palm of your hand. It features the same 16 megapixel Live MOS sensor as the much larger GX7, and a high resolution 3-inch touchscreen LCD. The GM1 offers full manual controls, automatic and creative modes, 22 filter effects, time lapse, and stop motion modes. The shutter can be made nearly silent when you need to shoot discreetly. Additionally, built-in Wi-Fi allows you to control the camera and share photos quickly and easily by connecting to a smart phone or tablet.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-GM1 Mirrorless Camera Kit with 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 Lens
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“ If you're happy using a touch screen, and if fewer dials and controls aren't a deal-breaker, then you should take a good look at this camera. It's a good (and convenient) companion to have at your side.”
- 16MP CMOS Four Thirds sensor
- ISO 200-25600 (extendable ISO 125)
- Up to 5 FPS continuous shooting (40 FPS with electronic shutter)
- 3-inch touch LCD with 1,036,000 dots
- 1080/60i/30p/24p HD video (AVCHD/MPEG-4) with PASM control
- Creative Control mode with 22 filter effects + PSAM
- Silent shutter mode
- Built-in pop-up flash
- Built-in WiFi
- Raw and Raw+JPEG
- SD/SDHC/SDXC memory
|Body type||Rangefinder-style mirrorless|
|Max resolution||4592 x 3448|
|Image ratio w:h||1:1, 4:3, 3:2, 16:9|
|Effective pixels||16 megapixels|
|Sensor photo detectors||17 megapixels|
|Sensor size||Four Thirds (17.3 x 13 mm)|
|White balance presets||5|
|Custom white balance||Yes (2)|
|JPEG quality levels||Fine, Standard|
|Optics & Focus|
|Number of focus points||23|
|Lens mount||Micro Four Thirds|
|Focal length multiplier||2×|
|Screen / viewfinder|
|Screen type||TFT Color LCD with wide-viewing angle|
|Minimum shutter speed||60 sec|
|Maximum shutter speed||1/16000 sec|
|Manual exposure mode||Yes|
|Subject / scene modes||Yes|
|Built-in flash||Yes (Pop-up)|
|Flash range||4.00 m|
|Flash modes||Auto, On, Off, Red-Eye, Slow Sync|
|Continuous drive||5.0 fps|
|Self-timer||Yes (2 or 10 sec, 10 sec (3 images))|
|Exposure compensation||±5 (at 1/3 EV steps)|
|AE Bracketing||±3 (3, 5, 7 frames at 1/3 EV, 2/3 EV, 1 EV steps)|
|WB Bracketing||Yes (3 frames in either blue/amber or magenta/green axis)|
|Resolutions||1920 x 1080 (60i, 50i, 24p), 1280 x 720p (60p, 50p), 640 x 480 (30p, 25p)|
|USB||USB 2.0 (480 Mbit/sec)|
|HDMI||Yes (micro HDMI Type D)|
|Battery description||Lithium-Ion rechargeable battery & charger|
|Battery Life (CIPA)||230|
|Weight (inc. batteries)||204 g (0.45 lb / 7.20 oz)|
|Dimensions||99 x 55 x 30 mm (3.88 x 2.16 x 1.2″)|
Scoring is relative only to the other cameras in the same category at the time of review.
|Ergonomics & handling||
|Metering & focus accuracy||
|Image quality (raw)||
|Image quality (jpeg)||
|Low light / high ISO performance||
|Viewfinder / screen rating||
|Movie / video mode||
The GM1 offers many of the features and image quality of its Lumix GX7 sibling in a much smaller, lighter package. A few concessions have been made to reduce the size so drastically, namely a lower-capacity battery, but it's an excellent option for casual shooting.
Street shooting, casual portraits, moderately low light.
Not So Good For
Great Little Camera
Took this mini marvel on vacation to Hawaii where I used it extensively. Very pleased with handling and performance. I agree with much of DP Review’s findings with a few exceptions. It certainly deserves the gold award... Mostly a GX1 user for the past two years, my comparisons are in relation to GX1. I rarely use video, have not done any RAW conversions so far (which are covered by DP), so won’t comment on any of these. Pro’s: very small size / weight; feature rich; fast and very quiet to ...
Just a couple of preliminary remarks on the GM1
I will try to do a more detailed review later. My first impressions are: (1) This camera is a tiny delight. It makes me smile just to see it sitting on the table waiting to be taken for a walk! (2) In use, the camera is just as small and compact as I imagined it would be and as it looked in the store.
What I expected
After a week of using this camera, I'm mostly pleased with it. IQ is great even with the kit lens, it feels quite solid despite its diminutive size, it does not lack at all in features an customizations. It also looks great IMO. My only qualms is that it does not allow USB charging - instead, you have to carry a bulky external charger, the menus are a bit fiddly (though the Q. menu mostly makes up for it), and the Wi-fi photo transfer for PC is bordering on useless.
Off camera flash test Panasonic GM1 with kitlens 12-32 f3.5-f5.6
The smallest MFT camera today is the Panasonic GM1. With a flash sync speed of 1/50 and no hotshoe it doesn't seem that good for off camera flash. Because I like this little cameras versatility and IQ and like a challenge I tested it to do exactly this. All images were shot with the kitlens 12-32 mm f3.5-f5.6, pop up flash and (except no 1 & 2 ) a Lumopro LP120 manual flash set to optical slave. No 1-6 are JPG's straight out of camera with Landscape photo style. NO 1 First I took a picture in ...
Using wide open for a subject far away?
Hi I'm looking for some advice. I will be going to London next week to see England play against Samoa at Rugby. The kick is going to be very late and there isn't going to be any natural light. So it look like I will need to be using either fast primes or fast zooms. My question is can I get the subject in focus if he is far away and the lens is wide open? The popular belief is to get a distant subject in focus, the lens need to be stopped down to either F16 or F22(Full Frame). Sadly due to a lack of light I don't think it will be possible for me to get F8. The final thing I'm not sure what I will be taking with me. It would be nice if I take my GH3 + 35-100mm next week but I'm going with one of my brothers and he isn't fond of me taking 'bulky' equipment with to outings. So I may take the GM1 with 15mm 1.7 and the 45-150mm just in case the light is good enough. Thanks for your time. P.S I have limited experience with fast zooms and fast wide angle primes.
That is not correct. It applies to landscapes where you may want the maximum DOF to get foreground and distant objects in focus, but it is not a general principle. You won't need it, and anyway if you are shooting sports you are very concerned about shutter speed, and less concerned about DOF - in fact less DOF may help the subject to stand out. I think it would be a great experience to just watch the game without the distraction of photography, and don't forget there will be lots happening around the game, not just the game itself - an ideal situation for street photography and portraits. Enjoy the game. Continue Reading
In fact, I rather like wide apertures for distant subjects. For example (mFT equivalents are given): 75mm f/1.4 50mm f/1: 100mm f/1.4: 35mm f/1.4: In short, I would think that you'd be fine with the 35-100 / 2.8 with distant subjects, even wide open. Continue Reading
I assume we are talking about autofocus. Any of you lenses will focus on whatever you put your AF focus point on. The depth of field will determine how much around that point will be in focus. If you take one of your lenses, stop it down to its smallest aperture, and focus on something between 1meter and 1.5 meters, everything from that point to infinity should be in sharp focus; just about the entire stadium. Take the same lens and open it wide up and you will have the narrowest DOF the lens can produce. I just got the 35-100mm f2.8 and it is a great lens. With the hood, it is pretty large on my E-M10, but is lighter than my 12-40mm f/2.8 and easy to manage. I don't have either of the other two lenses but shooting sports is all about speed and you are going to be more concerned about shutter speed to get good results. So, I would leave the 45-150mm home and take the other two. If you decide on the GM1, try the 35-100mm without the hood Or take the GH3 and if your brother finds it ... Continue Reading
GM1 - Is the time lapse useful with that small battery?
Since the Panasonic DMC-GM1 has been "gifted" with a relatively small and weak battery, how useful is the time lapse feature really? Can I for instance record a sequence that stretches over an entire day, or at least several hours? Does the camera power down between frames? Is there any way to connect an external power source for even longer sequences?
I'm surprised you didn't consider checking the online manual. It's really quite informative: * During recording standby, the power will turn off automatically if no operation is performed for a certain period. The Time Lapse Shot is continued even with the power turned off. When the recording start time arrives, the power turns on automatically. * During [Time Lapse Shot], you can replace the battery and the card, and then restart by turning on this unit. * We recommend that you use a sufficiently charged battery or an AC adaptor (optional) and a DC coupler (optional). Continue Reading
Hi, sorry for dragging up an old thread but I stumbled on this one a couple of weeks ago when I started thinking about doing time lapse with my GM1 and didn't really find any satisfactory answers. I have since done a few time lapse sessions so hopefully if another potential GM1 owner stumbles onto this thread they can get some use out of it. Most reviews put the battery life at about 240 shots for this camera. I guess that's under "normal" non-time lapse conditions with lots of chimping and probably some flash usage. This morning I went out to do some time lapse and got about 1,650 frames (at 3 second intervals) from a full charge. I shot until the battery drained completely. This included a handful of re-frames plus building and watching about 30 seconds worth of video on-camera (so a reasonable amount of I/O). This is enough for a little over a minute of footage (25 fps, 1,650 frames gives you 66 seconds of footage). Not bad, but not amazing. The good news is that if you buy ... Continue Reading
Just a quick update, I did another shoot and got just over 1,900 shots on a charge. That was with 5 re-frames, no building videos, dimmed LCD and right at the start I deleted about 2,000 shots from my SD card (so a little bit of additional I/O). 3 second interval, about 1/5th of the shots used the electronic shutter. I think you could easily get over 2,000 shots if you used electronic shutter and were careful about how you reframed. Continue Reading
Mirrorless under 1000?
Hello everyone, I am a begginer photographer but planning to learn more and get better. I have been reading for almost two weeks review topics on cameras and things like this but i still cannot decide what camera to buy as my first. Hopefully some input from experienced people will help me. My maximum budget is around 800-900$ however that will be quite an effort for me, so im trying to get best quality for the money, wouldnt mind spending around 500$ instead. So what am i looking for? 1. My main interests are landscape & street photography with just a bit of architecture and portrait. So thinking a lens covering a 20-40mm focal will be enough for me. I do not plan to buy more lenses at least not in the near future, because of portability but also money issues. I want a mirrorless instead of a point and shoot mostly because of the bigger sensor to have better IQ but also to give me the opportunity to learn in the future, use manual settings etc. 2. Image quality is very important ...
There's a very good reason that higher quality cameras include some type of viewfinder. In order to capture a sharply focused image, you have to start with a camera that's stable, or motionless. Using a good tripod is one method of providing a stable base. An alternative is to find a way to brace the camera against a stationary object; the side of a building for instance. One of the least stable bases that can be used is to hold the camera in your hands then push your arms out so that you can see the image you want to shoot in a rear LCD screen. The better option than that is to hold the camera close in to your body, and tuck your arms against your sides to avoid unwanted arm movement that will result in a blurred image. To get the best possible image, the camera should be set at its base ISO setting. Then the shutter speed needs to be fast enough to minimize any movement (camera shake) that might be happening. A fast shutter speed requires a wide aperture that permits the lens to ... Continue Reading
at the Olympus E-pm2 two lens kit. About $400.00 USD. Tedolph Continue Reading
Great IQ but not with the kitlens. No you won't need a prime. But like above the kit is rubbish. So you will need the 16-70. Which is very expensive. Great little camera with pretty much all the bells and whistles. IQ not on sony/Fuji levels though. The nex has a better LCD screen and an slightly older 16mp sensor. Trading blows really. Best sony option.the sony Kit lens should be thrown away anyway. The fujifilm is one of the best in high iso tests. The kit lens is faster and sharper then the competition. This is NOT an issue. Yup there are many quirks. Stupid translations. Laggy viewfinder poor LCD screen and old school handling. It certainly ain't for everybody but it's images are very rewarding. Totally different animal. It's tiny and will be with you everywhere. The kit lens is great but limited in range. You can't shoot any action since it relies on electronic shutter to freeze motion. Which leads to rolling shutter in stills. That said nothing at similar size can rival it's ... Continue Reading
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|PRODUCT OR PART NAME||PARTS||LABOR|
|DIGITAL STILL CAMERA||1 (ONE) YEAR||1 (ONE) YEAR|
|CCD||6 (SIX) MONTHS||90 (NINETY) DAYS|
|RECHARGEABLE BATTERY PACK (IN EXCHANGE FOR DEFECTIVE BATTERY PACK)||90 (NINETY) DAYS||NOT APPLICABLE|