The Lumix G 20mm F1.7 II ASPH is an updated version of Panasonic's much loved pancake lens for its Micro Four Thirds cameras, featuring a new metallic barrel design in either black or silver. Optically it's the same as its predecessor, which is to say excellent. With its 40mm equivalent angle of view and 20cm minimum focus distance, it's an excellent choice for general-purpose use.
Panasonic Lumix G 20mm f/1.7 II ASPH Lens (Micro Four Thirds)
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- 20mm focal length
- 40mm equivalent focal length on Micro Four Thirds cameras
- F1.7 maximum aperture; F16 minimum
- 46mm filters
- 0.20m/7.87" minimum focus
- Micro Four Thirds mount for Micro Four Thirds interchangeable lens cameras
- New metal construction
- Lighter and smaller than previous version
|Lens type||Prime lens|
|Max Format size||FourThirds|
|Focal length||20 mm|
|Lens mount||Micro Four Thirds|
|Number of diaphragm blades||7|
|Aperture notes||Circular aperture diaphragm|
|Special elements / coatings||2 aspherical elements|
|Minimum focus||0.20 m (7.87″)|
|Full time manual||Yes|
|Weight||87 g (0.19 lb)|
|Diameter||63 mm (2.48″)|
|Length||26 mm (1″)|
|Materials||Metal barrel, metal mount|
|Colour||Silver or Black|
|Filter thread||46 mm|
|Filter notes||does not rotate on focus|
A good lens, but pricey
Just purchased this lens to replace my old one which was lost/stolen. Whereas I was not convinced with the quality of the old model, I am satisfied with the new version. Interestingly, DxO gives this new lens a slightly lower sharpness rating than the old one, which would confirm that my old lens was a dud... Here are my findings for my 20mm f1.7 II: Sharpness in the centre is mostly very good from wide open to f8; ok at f11 but rapidly decreasing at smaller apertures. Edge and corner ...
Finally got the new 20mm for my epl5.
I upgraded from a P&S to the epl5 half a year ago. Being a student, I don't want to spend too much on fancy lenses without the skill to make the most out of them. So I started with the kit lense and Oly40-150R. Now that I've learned the basics I decided it's time to own my first prime. I bought a de-kitted 20mm II for 1800RMB, or 290USD. It's not the cheapest prime or pancake, but it serve the most purposes. It's going to be my walk-around pancake, my low-light lens and my environmental ...
Superb little lens
This is my lens of choice for keeping on my GF5. It is very compact and with the small size of the GF5, it makes the camera pocketable, only marginally bigger than a compact. Don't let the size fool you. This lens performs extremely well. Shallow depth of field and a good bokeh are plus points. Great for street photography and for portraits, flowers, all sorts. I just LOVE IT!
Ultra compact, great quality
Bought this as I wasn't overly impressed with the bundled 12-23mm lens the DMC-GM1 came with. I've been using this one almost exclusively since, it makes the GM1 a great pocket camera and although I also bought the PS45175E (45 to 175mm) zoom, I've stuck with the 20mm as it works for 90% of the time and I find myself spending more time getting a good photograph rather than just relying on zooming in or out to get the the shot. My only regret was not being able to just purchase the GM1 body ...
Does anyone have the Voigtlander 21mm f/1.8 Ultron?
How well does it perform (sharpness, corners, purple fringing)? AF aside, how well does it fare against the native Panasonic 20/1.7? Thanks in advance!
I haven't used the 21mm Ultron, but have had my eye on it. From what I've read, the 28mm f2 Ultron is also very good. Here's a review: http://lavidaleica.com/content/voigtl%C3%A4nder-21mm-f18-ultron The Voigtländers I've adapted are the Nokton Classic 35mm f 1.4 and 75mm f2.5 Color Heliar. I tend not to agonize too much over sharpness and such, but both lenses perform beautifully on my GH2 and GX7. I use them for their excellent rendering and sharpness, even wide open. You should be very pleased with it. Beware, Voigtländer addiction is real! ;-) Continue Reading
Thanks. I was actually hoping for a direct comparison between the 21/1.8 and 20/1.7, because their focal lengths are very similar enough and since I have several legacy lenses along with a single native 20/1.7, it would be more convenient to completely go fully legacy and leaving the M-to-m4/3 adapter on my GX7 than keep swapping it around depending on what focal length I want mounted. Continue Reading
Which lens (and other equipment) is missing from this group?
Hello, recently bought a Olympus OD-M10 with M.ZUIKO DIGITAL 14-42mm 1:3.5-5.6 EZ. In the few days I fould this zoom too short and not good at night. Am going to a once-in-a-lifetime Africa trip with wildlife, landscapes, people. Also, other favourite subjects are my children (portraits, football games, concerts) as well as mountains, cities. These are the (all Olympus m43) lenses I am getting: - The 14-150 to be "always" ready without having to change lenses in the dusty Namibian desert. - The 75-300 for the animals. - The 9-18 for the landscapes. - The 45 for portraits. Now I am wondering which lens I am missing for a "perfect" group of all-situations-covered lenses: the Oly 17(1.8), Panny 20 or Leica 25?? (for low light) (I think I should get the Panny 20... What do you think considering the other lenses in the group??) Also, I think I need a couple of extra batteries and a couple of 32G Sandisk Extreme Plus SD cards. A home-made bean-bag. A camera case or carry-it-all bag... A ...
Leave this at home and get a 2nd body. This also helps to minimize lens changes. And if dust or a thief takes one, you have a back up... (I have to admit, I am biased against super zooms, but still think, my arguments for a 2nd body hold.) This could be on the 2nd body during day time, the 17/20/25mm at night Make it 3 per camera body at least Whatever you choose, carry the 2 bodies in different bags or leave one body in the hotel, if you walk around in a town. A great time in Africa! Peter Continue Reading
Take look at the Panasonic 14-140mm f3.5-5.6. I'm not a zoom, or superzoom fan, but having used a 14-140mm, they're very convenient! Check out the 7-14mm, too. Yes, it's a bit more expensive and slightly bigger than the 9-18mm, but the 7mm end gives you a pretty unique perspective on things. The constant f4 aperture is very nice to have, too! It's one of my favorite walkabout travel lenses. It's a good companion for a 17mm, too. I'd say the 17mm f1.8. It's a very flexible length and it's nice to have a wider angle, fast lens for indoor shooting. From what I've read, the 20mm focuses slowly on Olympus bodies. The 25mm f1.4 is a great lens, certainly better than the 17mm. You can't really go wrong with a standard 50mm lens. I prefer the UltraPod II to a GorillaPod. I have both and the G-Pod is much heavier and it's bulk, and all those knuckles, make it much trickier to work with. The knuckles have grippy rubber on them and snag on things, so it's annoying getting it in and out of a ... Continue Reading
I think that you are very well equipped with lenses. That would pretty much cover the situations that you meet. Just examples of what you might meet in Namibia. You see the need of different lenses, of which you possess. Best, and have a nice trip.//GöranR Continue Reading
LCD live (no)view and noisy lens problem with E-M10 + 20mm/1.7 II
Hey, I have a new Oly E-M10 with 20mm/1.7 but I encountered two problems, I hope it's something easy to fix and maybe someone here would help me figure out what's going on 1) 20mm/1.7's noisy aperture : I guess it's aperture. When the camera is in "standby" mode, so it's on, ready for some action, but the shutter speed isn't pressed, the aperture closes and opens up as the light changes (if I'm on auto or half-auto modes). So when I aim at something dark, aperture will open up and when I move the camera to aim at something bright, it closes down. But here's the problem: this lens is very noisy while doing this. I can hear very clear clicks, like 3-8 of them each time I move the camera noticeably (from dark to bright etc). How noisy? Hard to describe, but you could easily hear it standing 2 meters away. In silence you could easily hear it standing at the other end of practically ANY room. Salesperson told me it's normal with this lens. But really? Btw the IS is also noisy (louder ...
I don't own an EM10, but have the Em5 for almost two years. Last winter, I was playing with MYSET's, did a full camera reset and I got into a similar situation. No live view on the LCD and I couldn't get it back, I had been using this camera for 20 months! Finally, I remembered the button on the right side of the EVF with this mark |O| , pressed it and and I got my live view back on the LCD. The EM10 has the same button. Have you tried it? Continue Reading
2) Button on the side of the EVF. Press it. 1) Yes, it's normal. also, the IS isn't on the lens, it's on the body, and if you find the sound distracting, you can disable IS when the shutter is half pressed. I prefer to do that because I hate the sound the IS makes. Continue Reading
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"If your product does not work properly because of a defect in materials or workmanship, Panasonic Consumer Electronics Company or Panasonic Puerto Rico, Inc. (collectively referred to as “the warrantor”) will, for the length of the period indicated on the chart below, which starts with the date of original purchase (“warranty period”), at its option either (a) repair your product with new or refurbished parts, or (b) replace it with a new or refurbished product. The decision to repair or replace will be made by the warrantor."
|PRODUCT OR PART NAME||PARTS||LABOR|
|DIGITAL STILL CAMERA||1 (ONE) YEAR||1 (ONE) YEAR|
|CCD||6 (SIX) MONTHS||90 (NINETY) DAYS|
|RECHARGEABLE BATTERY PACK (IN EXCHANGE FOR DEFECTIVE BATTERY PACK)||90 (NINETY) DAYS||NOT APPLICABLE|