Pentax HD DA 55-300mm F4-5.8 ED WR Lens

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Key Features

  • 55-300mm focal length
  • 82.5-450mm equivalent focal length on APS-C cameras
  • F4-5.8 maximum aperture; F22-32 minimum
  • 58mm filter size
  • 1.4m/55.12" minimum focus
  • Weather-resistant build for damp conditions
  • HD optical coating minimizes reflection
  • Pentax KAF2 lens mount for K-mount DSLRs

Product Description

The HD Pentax DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 ED WR is a telephoto zoom that's weathersealed to complement the company's recent SLRs. It also gains Pentax's latest 'High Definition' coating to minimize flare and ghosting. Aside from that, the specifications are practically identical to the existing smc DA 55-300mm f/4-5.8 ED lens. The 83-450mm equivalent angle of view makes it well-suited to subjects such a sports and wildlife.


Principal specifications
Lens type Zoom lens
Max Format size APS-C / DX
Focal length 55–300 mm
Image stabilisation No
Lens mount Pentax KAF2
Maximum aperture F4.0 - F5.8
Minimum aperture F22.0 - F32.0
Aperture ring No
Number of diaphragm blades 6
Elements 12
Groups 8
Special elements / coatings ED glass elements
Minimum focus 1.40 m (55.12)
Maximum magnification 0.28×
Autofocus Yes
Motor type Screw drive from camera
Full time manual Yes
Distance scale Yes
DoF scale No
Weight 466 g (1.03 lb)
Diameter 71 mm (2.8)
Length 112 mm (4.39)
Sealing Yes
Colour Black
Zoom method Rotary (extending)
Filter thread 58 mm
Hood supplied Yes
Hood product code PH-RBI 58mm
Tripod collar No

Questions & Answers


Use of close-up lens with telephoto?

I am not a technical guy with respect to cameras & lenses and have just purchased a K-3 with the 18-135mm WR lens, and 55-300mm WR lens with a Pentax 1.4x TC and a Polaroid brand 500D close-up lens (similar to Canon 500D?). I am doing some "desktop experimenting" and have some questions. Probably 80% or more of my photography will be nature/wildlife oriented and done on hiking trails or from a kayak. While there will be a lot of landscape-type scenic images, a great many images will be either telephoto shots of critters that are at a distance (full telephoto + TC), or insects/flowers at very up-close distances (maximum "magnification" and minimum focusing distance). The problem is I would like to be able to switch between these two extremes very quickly, with a minimum of lens changing. I also prefer to hike/kayak with the telephoto & TC on the camera, as the distance/critter shots usually come without warning and require a very fast response (seconds or less), while the close-up ...

Craig R K asked
6 months ago


Just to put into perspective the differences ("true" macro lens vs. zoom with attached close-up lens): The two pictures below are of a similar subject, taken in similar conditions. One is taken with a K-10, Pentax 50-200mm kit zoom and Raynox DCR-150. The other one is taken with a K-5 with attached Voigtländer Apo Lanthar f2,5/125mm (a highly regarded "true" /goes to mag. 1:1/ macro lens). The results should be compared at full (published) size, i. e. longer side is 1152 pix. Pentax K-10 @ iso 400; Pentax smc DA 50-200mm F4-5.6 ED; Raynox DCR-150 Pentax K-5 @ iso 160; Voigtlander 125mm f/2.5 Apo-Lanthar Macro SL Continue Reading

Janko answered
6 months ago

can be for a cheap macro solution Any time you focus closer you're giving up DOF Not likely enough to worry about If you don't have the cash for a lens that will do the same but better or if one doesn't exist then go for it the rest would require unmounting the lens and putting something behind it Make sure its a good achromat front filter attachment, the cheap single element close-up filters are a waste of money if you care about reasonable image quality Continue Reading

MightyMike answered
6 months ago

From reading reviews, I've gathered that close-up lenses tend to add a bit of blur. They may also affect your field curvature and overall distortion, but I don't know too much about that. A dedicated macro lens like the 100mm f/2.8 will, give you a brighter image in the viewfinder, is virtually distortion-free, sharp, and relatively short on chromatic aberration. Starting with a sharp lens is a good idea because you'll need to stop down quite a bit to allow a reasonable part of your subject to be in focus. If you ever want to go beyond 1:1 magnification, a macro lens is a better starting point otherwise you'll likely be adding a *lot* of extension tubes, not to mention have a rather slow lens that may require entirely stationary subjects. Continue Reading

Leandros S answered
6 months ago

Warranty Information

"RICOH IMAGING products originally distributed by RICOH IMAGING CORPORATION, 633 17th Street, Suite 2600, Denver, Colorado 80202, have a limited One-Year Warranty starting from the date of purchase. This limited warranty covers any defects in original factory materials and workmanship. If your RICOH IMAGING product malfunctions due to such a defect within this one-year period, RICOH IMAGING CORPORATION will repair it at no charge within a reasonable amount of time. This warranty does not cover any damage caused to the product, including, but not limited to: impact, moisture, liquid, sand, excessive temperature, battery leakage, chemical corrosion, mishandling, operation contrary to operating instructions, tampering, modification, or servicing by an unauthorized repair shop.RICOH IMAGING shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages, such as memory cards, batteries, travel expenses, loss of time, etc. This warranty only applies to RICOH IMAGING photographic equipment originally distributed in the United States by RICOH IMAGING CORPORATION, 633 17th Street, Suite 2600, Denver, Colorado 80202".

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