The Sigma 19mm F2.8 DN is a wide angle lens designed exclusively for mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras and has the equivalent angle of view as a 38mm (35mm equivalent focal length) on the Micro Four Thirds systems and 28.5mm (35mm equivalent focal length) on the E-mount systems. This lens benefits from a newly developed linear AF motor which moves the lens elements directly without the need for gears or the drive of other mechanical parts. This system ensures accurate and quiet autofocusing, making the lens suitable for video recording as well as still photos. This lens has a minimum focusing distance of 20cm/7.9in, making it useful for relatively close-range work.
Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN Lens (Micro Four Thirds)
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- 19mm focal length
- 28.5mm equivalent focal length on APS-C cameras, 38mm equivalent focal length on Four Thirds / Micro Four Thirds cameras
- F2.8 maximum aperture; F22 minimum
- 0.20m/7.87" minimum focus
- Available in Micro Four Thirds, Sony E (NEX) mounts
|Lens type||Prime lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||19 mm|
|Lens mount||Micro Four Thirds, Sony E (NEX)|
|Number of diaphragm blades||7|
|Special elements / coatings||Super Multi-Layer Coating|
|Minimum focus||0.20 m (7.87″)|
|Full time manual||Unknown|
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Sigma 19mm f/2.8 DN Lens by DPReview
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Buying my first prime ever, which one would it be?
Hi, Got my nex6 with 16-50 kit before a month (my first pro-camera), I'm pretty happy with it, doing my first steps into the photography world, reading books, blogs and striving to output amazing shots :) However, I was at a party few days ago, it was in a very dark room and all my shots were very grainy and soft, probably because of the relative slow lens (at ISO3200 and minimum aperture 3.5 I had to shot with slow shutter 1/10 which is definitely not intended for moving objects, when I raised the ISO to 6400 pictures became grainy). Shooting in dark places is not my main concern, that was an extreme situation but I often find myself in a situation where a faster lens could make the difference. So, aiming for my first prime... I examined all the photos from the party and notices that most were shot in FL between 16-24mm, I guess that means that I tend to shot in wide zoom. Consequently, I considered Sigma 19mm as my preferred option, however I'm not sure regarding the following: 1. ...
Agreed. You should have used the flash in that situation. Yes, f/2.8 will work, so does the FL of 19mm - it is nice and wide for indoors. Your ISO3200 f/3.5 shot will not change much if you go to f/2.8. However, if you zoom, the 18-50 kit will be at f/4 or smaller. Then f/2.8 is a full stop faster. You will still be at ISO3200, but now at f/2.8 and 1/20th, as opposed to f/4 and 1/10th. It will work for still objects, not always with people. I would consider the flash, putting up some more lights, or a lens that is f/2 (getting you to ISO1600 and 1/20th). It is a wide lens, so 1/FL matches 1/20th. You should be able to master that. But, as mentioned in another thread, for pixel-level sharpness, 1/30th or 1/40th may be preferred. Yes, exactly. For a party, the E20 lens may work even better, as it makes the camera a lot less noticeable (looks more like a P&S). It is f/2.8, same as Sigma 19, but a bit more expensive. The E35 lens is a better choice, at f/1.8, but has a narrow FOV. I ... Continue Reading
Sony SEL20F28 on NEX 7 and color cast?
Has anyone used the new SEL 20F28 on the NEX 7? Magenta cast or not; it is a pancake after all ... Worse or less color cast in the corners than the Sigma 19 2.8 E mount lens? I would like to know what you have experienced here in order to understand which of these two might be (more) color cast free, if any ....
I have seen these issues with the Sigma twins. 1 Pink cast on both but can be cleared by custom WB. 2 Bad purple and green fringing on the edges (even at 5.6) can be cleaned in LR but leaves disturbed area artifacts. Worse on the 19, very little on the 30. 3. I am starting to doubt micro contrast on the Sigma 19mm despite its ability to out resolve and be flatter than the Zeiss 21 2.8. Sony OSS kit and 50 have good color IMHO. Continue Reading
Best M4/3 lens for stealthy, “no DSLRs allowed” professional shots in public places?
The quest being, to photograph (not “picture take”) professional models, entertainers, local celebs, etc., in busy, bustling, public places... This is personally accompanying them, as a service to them, NOT as paparazzi... A “pancake” or small as possible... (For Oly Pens) Fastest focus possible... Full body , semi-action shots, w/ blurred backgrounds... Can’t stand too far away and draw attention, has to be a causally walk around, click and move style... So far I’m tossed up between the Oly 17mm f/1.8 or the Sigma 19mm f/2.8 at half the price... or if anyone can make a suggestion that falls in-between. Already tried the Panny 14mm. It’s too wide, non-corrected in Pens and way too close anyway. (Should I even think about the Oly 17mm f/2.8?)
Look at getting a GM1 with an Olympus 25/1.8 The 25/1.8 is much smaller than the 25/1.4, while still being very good optically. I think the AF performance of the Panasonic 20/1.7 would cause some missed shots. You'll get shallower DOF with the Olymmpus 25/1.8 compared to the Olympus 17/1.8. The new Panasonic 15/1.7 is too wide. Continue Reading
Before digital, the way to be stealthy was to have an non-reflective, low-profile a camera as possible. Now, everyone has a camera with an LCD held at arm's length, so simply having a camera will end up getting lost in the sea of cameras-- but the best way to stand out, threateningly, as a photographer, is putting a camera of any kind to your face. The blacker and stealthier and more professional looking it is, the more it'll stand out. Your best bet to be low key nowadays is, regardless of the flashiness or unflashiness of the camera itself, is to avoid using a viewfinder. If you use a camera that only has an LCD, or at the very least handle your camera like it only has an LCD, then your camera will not be perceived as a pro camera to the layman (and that's what they mean when they say "no SLRs"-- no camera that "looks pro", and to the layman even the smallest SLR looks pro). As for lenses, it sounds like you'll be relatively close to the subject. I think something in the 17-25mm ... Continue Reading
A medium-long, wide lens will give you the best chance of that -- and there just happens to be one that is tiny, the Olympus 45mm f/1.8. But I think the camera body is the more important "does this look like a big professional camera" part; on a Panasonic GF, GX, or GM body, or on an Olympus PM or PL body, the 45mm will look almost like a point-n-shoot. However, if this is "as a service to them", how can you be concerned about whether it looks like a pro camera or not? If you're out in public and doing this in their pay, surely you could be toting some ginormous 35mm full-frame digital and no one would care? C. Continue Reading
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"Beginning July 1, 2013, all brand new Sigma Products purchased from authorized Sigma dealers are covered under the 1 year America warranty (North and South America) and U.S.A. extended warranties for a period of three (3) years against defects in manufacturing and workmanship only. Your warranty period begins the day you purchase your Sigma camera, lens and/or flash and runs for a total period of four years from that date (please refer to the warranty policy included with your product)."