The Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN is designed exclusively for mirrorless interchangeable lens cameras and offers the equivalent angle of view as a 60mm lens (35mm equivalent focal length) on the Micro Four Thirds systems and 45mm (35mm equivalent focal length) on the E-mount system. This lens benefits from a newly developed linear AF motor, which moves the lens elements directly without the need for gears or the drive of other mechanical parts. This system ensures accurate and quiet autofocusing, making the lens suitable for video recording as well as still photos. The lens is available in either a silver or black finish.
Sigma 30mm F2.8 DN Lens (Micro Four Thirds)
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- 30mm focal length
- 45mm equivalent focal length on APS-C cameras, 60mm equivalent focal length on Four Thirds / Micro Four Thirds cameras
- F2.8 maximum aperture; F22 minimum
- 0.30m/11.81" minimum focus
- Available in Micro Four Thirds, Sony E (NEX) mounts
|Lens type||Prime lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||30 mm|
|Lens mount||Micro Four Thirds, Sony E (NEX)|
|Number of diaphragm blades||7|
|Special elements / coatings||Super Multi-Layer Coating|
|Minimum focus||0.30 m (11.81″)|
|Full time manual||Unknown|
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Sigma 30mm f/2.8 DN Lens by DPReview
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Startup time on Sigma Art 30mm DN slow?
Hi, I just got a Sigma DN 30mm/2.8 and mounting it on either the GH3 or GM1 and the camera goes through start-up as per other lenses but adds an extra blank screen (just showing the shooting parameters at the limits of the screen as if I had left the lens cap on) for about 0.5s before showing the image. Anyone else notice this with their Sigma lenses? It isn't a dealbreaker - I love the lens and any cheaper it would be competing with the Oly BCL for price - just it seems odd. C
Depends on what you consider slow, for instance my 19mm is considered slow, in reality it has never been a problem. How long does it take you to remove the lens cap and stick it in your pocket for safe keeping ? I bet it takes a lot longer than it takes for the sigma lens to become ready once the camera is turned on. Continue Reading
I said: So I seem to be clear it isn't an issue, it just seemed odd and was asking if I had a bad sample or if it was normal. Rather obviously yes - it's not an issue - it just seems sufficiently different from the Pana, Oly and Tokina lenses I have that do communicate with the body that I'd ask. C Continue Reading
Its a little like booting a PC, there all different in there boot up times, it all depends on what hardware is attached. It takes a little longer with these lenses because they need to engage before they can be used, turned off the Sigma elements float and rattle. Continue Reading
Would the Sigma 30mm f/2.8 work good with the Olympus E-M10?
I've decided to get only the body of the e-m10 after finding out that the kit lens give average results. To go along with the body, I wanted to get a standard prime lense. So after doing some researching, I found that the sigma 30mm f/2.8 fulfilled my needs (good for street photography). The thing is, I'm new to mirrorless cameras (I've only used a canon compact before), or interchangeable lens cameras in general. So I'm not sure if I'm really making a good choice of lenses. Any opinions? (Suggestions are welcome, but my budget for lenses is $300 max)
60mm effective is a bit long for street. But it would work awesome ... I find it awesome on Panny bodies without IBIS, so adding IBIS is that much more fun. But consider the 19mm Siggy ... it becomes a 38mm, which is right in the ball park for street to my knowledge ... Well, had you asked before buying that body, I would have suggested you contemplate the GM1 ... a really nice body that is very small and thus very stealthy on the street. The 12-32 lens hits all the useful street focal lengths and is really sharp, and also stabilized. Anyway, any of these will work ... you need to decide what your favourite focal length is and then buy around that area ... I think the Siggy 19 and 30 are spectacular for the money ... the Oly 45 is also excellent, but it is definitely not a general street lens ... Continue Reading
Buying a body only and then a lens is the expensive way of doing it. If you got a GM1 with the 12-32mm (worth 350.00) and the whole kit cost you $750.00, you would be paying $400 for the body. If you got a GX7 kit with the 20mm (say 900 altogether - these are rough figures ) and the lens is worth $400 then you are only paying $500 for the body. If you are determined to buy a EM10 body by itself, then either a used 20mm - or a Sigma 19 or 30mm might suit you, the latter Sigma is supposed to be better than the former. I have the 60 and like it, but that is long as the only lens in your bag. F. Continue Reading
I bought a 1st gen 20mm F1.7 used for 275$, KEH.COM. Its faster for when you need it, or want less DOF, and at 40mm equiv is perfect for street shots. IQ is great too, sharpest at F2 so that speed is usable. -- "Run to the light, Carol Anne. Run as fast as you can!" Continue Reading
Bad copy of Sigma 30mm f2.8 Art?
First I want to say that the new exterior of the Sigma 30mm is beautiful. If you just look at the web images, it looks like silver plastic. But both of the silver parts are metal. I know this lens is highly praised for it's sharpness. But I've compared it to my copy of the 16-50 and it just doesn't impress me. Sigma 30mm f5.0 vs Sony 16-50mm (@30mm) f8.0 Center: Sony might be slightly sharper, very close. Left center: Sony sharper Right center: Sigma sharper Corners: Sigma sharper in 3/4 corners. I just expected a prime to be much sharper across the board. The Sigma can't zoom and it's bigger. I'm wondering why should I keep this.
Strange - this lens has been tested as one of the very sharpest on the NEX, even wide open. Either your technique isn't good (as the lens has no OSS stabilisation, might need at least 1/30 - 1/60 sec shutter speeds?) or it's a bad copy. Simple test - place camera on a steady surface (e.g tripod, table, wall), in A mode, base ISO, centre focus, around f5.6, self-timer mode, focus carefully on something static on the table and you should see the lens at its sharpest, and should be sharper than the zoom (shoot the same scene with the zoom at 30mm, same aperture, with OSS off - interferes with stabilised non-handheld shots - to compare). Anything less is then down to other factors - shooting conditions, camera shake, subject movement etc. Continue Reading
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"Beginning July 1, 2013, all brand new Sigma Products purchased from authorized Sigma dealers are covered under the 1 year America warranty (North and South America) and U.S.A. extended warranties for a period of three (3) years against defects in manufacturing and workmanship only. Your warranty period begins the day you purchase your Sigma camera, lens and/or flash and runs for a total period of four years from that date (please refer to the warranty policy included with your product)."