The Sony E 50mm F1.8 OSS is a short telephoto prime lens for Sony's NEX-series interchangeable lens cameras. Its effective focal length of 75mm makes this an ideal lens for portraiture, and a fast maximum aperture of F1.8 is great for low-light or shallow depth-of-field photography. Optical performance is excellent, and Sony's OSS optical image stabilization is very useful for general photography, to keep things nice and shake-free. Watch out for one thing though - like other silver E-series lenses, the exterior of this high-performance prime attracts scuffs and scratches extremely easily.
Sony E 50mm f/1.8 OSS Lens (NEX E Mount)
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|Lens type||Prime lens|
|Max Format size||APS-C / DX|
|Focal length||50 mm|
|Image stabilisation||Yes (4 stop claimed)|
|Lens mount||Sony E (NEX)|
|Number of diaphragm blades||7|
|Aperture notes||Circular aperture|
|Minimum focus||0.39 m (15.35″)|
|Motor type||Stepper motor|
|Full time manual||Unknown|
|Weight||202 g (0.45 lb)|
|Diameter||62 mm (2.44″)|
|Length||62 mm (2.44″)|
|Materials||Metal barrel, metal mount|
|Filter thread||49 mm|
|Hood product code||ALC-SH116|
I only started liking my Nex5n after I got this lens
I admit, I would have preferred it somewhat shorter, like 60mm equivalent, but thats just my own quirky preference, Sony has good reason to stick to the "proper" length when making a portrait lens. The bokeh doesn't seem to have any particular character, looks similar to a gaussian blur, which maybe a good thing for most users. I admit to liking some of the more outlandish bokeh effects of certain older Olympus lenses, but thats subjective, sometimes borders on impressionist rendering. I did ...
My new Sony-E 50mm 1.8 OSS kind of "flashes" when shutter is depressed...is this normal?
When I push the shutter button half way down on my Nex-6 (and also when I release it), I can hear the lens (quietly) auto-focusing (or is it setting the aperture?)...and along with that, the viewfinder screen kind of "flashes". It's a bit distracting. The flashing is not as noticeable on the rear screen. Anyway, I am just wondering if the flashing is normal or if I should send the lens back for replacement. Thanks...
the reason of your "flashing" is that the lens, when on live view, has it's aperture closed to whatever you have (let's say 5.6) when you half press the shutter, it goes wide open (1.8) to focus, and then, closes to 5.6 again to get ready for the shot. What you're seeing as flashing is a sudden burst of more light coming in. it's just the way the lens does it's AF. Continue Reading
Check if you have Live View Display Settings Effect On. If it is set to off it will give you this kind of "flashes" It is in the Setup part of the menu. Continue Reading
Kit Lens + Bounce Flash or Fast Lens (Beginner Choice)
I'm gonna be buying a sony a3000 for my brother, which between the two would be a better choice for a beginner? I'm on a budget so it's either the body with kit lens and a sony hvl-f43m bounce flash or the body with a 50mm 1.8 lens and no bounce flash.
but I keep hearing there are people who like the ef 50 1.8... If your budget is that low, you better make sure you don't drop it unless you can afford a new one! don't expect that lens to take any kind of beating :) other than that it's fine considering the price. you can't (and don't want to) use a flash everywhere. you can use a fast lens everywhere. buy the lens now and then buy the flash when you get more money. Continue Reading
I would say it depends on what the person is interested in. A fast lens allows you to shoot in lower light, and also allows you the benefit of shallower depth of field if you so desire. A speedlite is a totally different beast - you're adding light instead of using available light. What makes the most sense really depends on what the individual is interested in. Shooting indoors a lot? Groups of people? Events? The speedlite is probably a more versatile bet. But you have to learn how to use it, and you have to be willing to carry it. Using it properly is not as simple as throwing it on the camera and blasting away. Also, if it's going to always be left at home it's useless. Is the person likely to want to carry the speedlite with them? I'm inclined to recommend the lens as it adds versatility in all kinds of shooting situations. There's really no right answer here, though. Continue Reading
I have Nikon D7100, Nikkor 35mm f/1.8 (co called fast lens), Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 and SB-910 external flash. Between deciding if to take the the 35mm lens or the flash, I'd definitely got with the flash, it gives me far more possibilities - to shoot in dark places etc. Continue Reading
Calling all pixel peepers...
I've been doing some experimenting with my NEX-6 to see how the noise is at ISO100. The photo below was taken with my 50mm f1.8 lens at f8 and ISO100 as a JPEG with Auto-DRO turned OFF. Exposure comp. set to +1.3. I would like some feedback on how the noise in the darker parts compares to your own experiences with the NEX cameras. The photo is nothing special; I just set it down on my laptop and used the 2-second timer to take an 8-second exposure. One thing I should point out is I have Long-Exposure Noise Reduction turned OFF, I'm not sure if that would improve this particular shot or if the exposure was long enough to matter anyway. Thanks
I'm not on the computer so I can't view full size, but: 1. Yes, you want LE NR on. No reason to turn it off unless you're doing something that specifically makes it worth turning off, like star trails. This is not standard NR but a dark frame subtraction of any hot pixels. 2. An 8s exposure will result in noise on any APS-C camera even at ISO 100. Continue Reading
I didn't know that about the LE NR, thanks for pointing that out. Below is another 8s exposure with LE NR turned on, as well as a shorter exposure with same settings but bigger aperture. Noise levels seem to be about the same as the original image. LE NR turned ON Larger aperture / shorter exposure Continue Reading
First if you're going to worry about noise ( and I would not bother on these modern sensors ), check the RAW output so you get an idea what the unprocessed data is like. Secondly, forget pixels. At normal display sizes they just don't matter on these NEX systems. I understand you're curious, but I see this kind of curiosity often becoming an obsession about something that has zero importance when it comes to making nice images. Thirdly, as you ask, my NEX F3 is something I'm comfortable leaving to it's own machinations up to ISO 1600 inclusive even for important shots. In fact I don't even need the resolution I normally get and I've been quite happy with the embedded thumbnails in RAWs for everyday use. RAW is often redundant and I'm starting to shift to RAW+JPEG and ignoring the RAW unless there's a critical white balance issue. Noise, AFAIC, is a non-issue at anything below ISO 1600 even for critical shots. Note also that something like e.g. NeatImage is a great tool for ... Continue Reading